I had a problem with the 10 amp 'indicator' fuse blowing on occasion. This eventually lead to the 10 amp & 30amp main fuse blowing.

Funny enough It all started with a freak gust of wind while waiting at a traffic light.. go figure.

Turned out the to be a wire shorting against the steel instrument cluster frame...... Linky here.


Good luck

 

Take off the cowls, get in a darkish room with a couple of cameras recording and turn on and wait till fuse blows, hopefully you will see with the naked eye where the bad earth is shorting if not one of the cameras might, just a suggestion.

 

Hi,

from all the posts it sounds, IMO, like an intermittent fault probably due to a chafed or shorting wire(s).
Invest/steal/borrow a voltmeter and test the wires whlst moving them to see if you can re-create the fault. This will then identify the wire then you can check just that one.
From previous experince, do not use bathroom silicone. If you need to access the wires again it is an absolute b*stard to remove! Use some heat shrink insulating sleeves.

best of luck

Rick

 

Heat shrink tubing with sealant inside it would be the best repairing the connections.
Ace Hardware carries a splice kit made for connecting the wires on a submersible well pump that have the crimp(or solder) connectors and sealant type heat shrink. Completely water proof.
Comes in a 4 pack.
If you want I can get the item # an post it for you.

 

Thanks for the offer Ranchome but I'm using heat-shrink tubing that should do the trick. My local Honda dealer also told me of another dealer whoi can make up new connectors, I might give them a call.

I've also wired in a push-switch to start the engine if my starter button fails again.

Might get it all reassembled within the next couple of days...

 

Not sure if it helps or not but I put in an entire new harness and the problem went away. I had the same melt hole in the main fuse clip and am sure that was the culprit. Sounds like you came to the same conclusion.

 

Hi pmcg

I now have four separate cables going into the relay by the main fuse, all with heat-shrink. I was feeling kind of creative and fashioned a 'box' made of rubber and glue to fit around the whole relay area. It's glued to the side of the relay and also held in place by the air intake duct.

Dunno how well it's gonna work or how long it's gonna last but it was therapeutic!

My bike now has plastic bits held together with plastex, right-side switchgear held in place by a self-tapping screw, cables where a block connector should be, a secondary starter button in case the original one plays up, and a rattly CCT. Still love to ride her though!

 

HAHA that's awesome. There's a real pride in doing it yourself. Any *** can pay the dealer but a real man makes a box out of rubber and glue!

 

Hmm might be time for a second hand wiring loom/switch gear?

 

Rode a few miles yesterday, all seemed OK. Started OK this morning but only got 6 or 7 miles down the road before she died again. GRRRRRRR... Stuck in the middle lane of the A3 with traffic zooming by at 40mph plus.

All fuses OK, but got the tell-tale loud click at the main fuse so battery obviously not charging.

Rode home with AA man's portable charger in my backpack connected to the battery.

He said it could be the reg/rec. I have a spare one in the garage so will see if it helps. He also said the voltage should go up when you rev the engine to indicate it's charging. It doesn't! does this point to the reg/rec or the alternator being faulty? Or is further testing necessary? I have the service manual so will look through that for the reg/rec test.

Is it easy to replace the alternator?