CBR 1000F "Hurricane" 1987-1996 CBR 1000F

Fork seals leaking after replacement

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #11  
Old 06-27-2012, 12:19 PM
BaronIsle's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

In fact I wouldn't be too surprised if the garage mechanic used his air line to put some air pressure back in the forks - the pressure required is very low relative to the pressure in the air line.
Might be that the air pressure is your problem?
 
  #12  
Old 06-27-2012, 01:30 PM
steve.zodiac's Avatar
Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Astley, Lancashire, UK
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Hojen77
I had my fork seals replaced today and when I picked my bike up this afternoon I told the
mechanic that I had an MOT test scheduled tomorrow. Oh, he said and looked somewhat
worried, remember to wipe the forks off before you go there then because they're gonna
leak oil in the beginning due to the oil change and the amount he put in. Say what??

I thought he was kidding but sure enough they both leaked and much more than before.
Is that really common? Thought they replaced the dust seal seen in the picture too, mine
has some cracks (minor) but he didn't do that either. Now I took an extra long ride home and it
did get better after a while but they still leak..
Had my fork seals replaced a month ago, my mechanic recommended genuine Honda parts, (he kept the packaging to prove it), sure enough, slightly heavier oil cos I'm a fat f**ker and zero leaks.

Cheers, Steve
 
  #13  
Old 06-27-2012, 02:11 PM
Sprock's Avatar
Administrator, MVN / ROTM NOV 2012
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Republic of Boon Island
Posts: 11,004
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Went will the "All *****" triple lip seals and dust cover sets - I'd recommend 'em

Really tho a lot of it too is is in prepping cleaning and buffing the chrome to make them
as mirror like as possible !
 
  #14  
Old 06-27-2012, 03:13 PM
Hojen77's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Over the hills
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Hey guys, thanks for all the advice and tips, as you may have guessed the leaking didn't stop
entirely and my bike failed the MOT test today. The inspection guy wasn't happy with what he saw..
He told me that If you fill too much oil in the forks they still shouldn't leak at all. What happens then instead
is that you get a very "hard" damping, he said.

I'm in a pretty bad mood now so.. but I went back to the workshop and talked with the owner and
asked him if it was him who did the job - he wouldn't answer me and just told me that replacing
fork seals were no big deal.. he has several employees. But he or the workshop wasn't
to blame, it had to be something wrong with the seals he said, and sure enough, they used aftermarket
seals. I didn't tell them to do that and there's not so much difference in price anyway.

If I had dared I would have done the job myself but I was under the impression that you needed very
expensive, special tools for that kind of job. Now I've already paid the workshop and I'm gonna
wait until they decide what to do. Money back or do a proper job is what I say.

You know, I didn't even get any kind of excuse for this sloppy work, instead he let me know that now he would
have a loss of profits on the job. Don't know if to laugh or ... over this whole matter.
 
  #15  
Old 06-27-2012, 03:32 PM
gotcbr's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 6,494
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Hojen77
...I didn't even get any kind of excuse for this sloppy work, instead he let me know that now he would have a loss of profits on the job...
What a tool. If he/they had done the job properly in the first place, there wouldn't be any "loss" & they'd have a happy customer instead.

Sorry you're having to deal w/ this. Not so sure I'd trust the same shop to redo the job.

There are no special tools needed other than a *fork seal driver*, which is only about $40. However, you can fab your own out of PVC if you're so inclined. Other than that, you just need a stand to lift your front end by the lower triple or use an engine hoist or strap from your shop ceiling. The factory shop manual covers the removal/service/reinstallation pretty well.

Good luck w/ everything.
 
  #16  
Old 06-27-2012, 04:37 PM
hawkwind's Avatar
September 2009 ROTM Winner - Faster than a Speeding ..........
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 3,808
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

My worst suspicions confirmed

If it was me I'd want my money back, but they have to be given the opportunity to put right what they have cocked up.

Needless to say, never use them again and the best way to find a workshop is by personal recommendation.

Hope it works out for you mate.
 
  #17  
Old 06-27-2012, 04:54 PM
Sprock's Avatar
Administrator, MVN / ROTM NOV 2012
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Republic of Boon Island
Posts: 11,004
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Hojen77

If I had dared I would have done the job myself but I was under the impression that you needed very
expensive, special tools for that kind of job. Now I've already paid the workshop and I'm gonna
wait until they decide what to do. Money back or do a proper job is what I say.
If ya do get your money back and decide to give it a shot ----- no big deal
we'll walk ya through it !

Required -
one pack of seals and new dust covers of your choice - most Guys prefer oem
i set of lower fork bushings (teflon coated)
1 litre of fork oil

long reach hex wrench and sockets and a clean workspace and some pvc pipe
to make you own seal driver

About 3 hours of time if all done in one go.

Oh and us egging you on ... drinking beer while you do it !

The upside of all your frustrations when all your "fairly normal issues" for 25 yr old +/-
bike , are worked out - is pure Hurricane heaven

Use nothing but PCMG's suggested quality beer suggested below
- only problem with that routine is - you'd probably only get to
complete one for per session which may turn the job into an
all weekend experience


VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV
 

Last edited by Sprock; 06-27-2012 at 05:29 PM.
  #18  
Old 06-27-2012, 05:24 PM
pmcg's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Sparta, NJ, USA
Posts: 520
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Don't even think of starting the job without the right amount of high quality beer.
 
  #19  
Old 06-27-2012, 05:26 PM
Sebastionbear1's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 4,647
Received 30 Likes on 20 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Sprock
If ya do get your money back and decide to give it a shot ----- no big deal
we'll walk ya through it !

Required -
one pack of seals and new dust covers of your choice - most Guys prefer oem
i set of lower fork bushings (teflon coated)
1 litre of fork oil

long reach hex wrench and sockets and a clean workspace and some pvc pipe
to make you own seal driver

About 3 hours of time if all done in one go.

Oh and us egging you on ... drinking beer while you do it !

The upside of all your frustrations when all your "fairly normal

And don't forget, some very stable way of holding the bike vertical whilst the forks are removed.

I use a rattle gun to release the bottom bolt - always have, and never had a problem. The bike shop mechanic here in Mount Pleasant put me onto that method years ago. Hence, no special tools needed at all! Assuming you have the right diameter pipe available to carefully bang in the seals

Cheers, SB
 
  #20  
Old 06-27-2012, 06:19 PM
Hojen77's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Over the hills
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Smile

You're all so nice in here so I would get a trunk full of beer to all of you if I could

I don't know why but somehow dealing with the forks kinda scares me, maybe I'm afraid I'll ruin
something and of course making a mistake with the front suspension and then driving off could lead
to some bad things happening.. But I believe you, I managed carb removal and valve adjustments for the first time
a couple of weeks ago so why not changing seals in the fork too

Late here now, I'll see how it goes with the shop tomorrow.
Thx to all of you again for your support and, BaronIsle, for your suggestion about air pressure too, but for now
I'm not touching anything concerning the forks, Who knows what that shop has done to my poor bike..
 


Quick Reply: Fork seals leaking after replacement



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:54 PM.