I have an 88 1000f With 7,000 Orig. Miles That Sounds Like Someone Is Rattiling Some Marbles In A Coffee Can. I Keep Reading About Everyone And There Cam Chain Tensioner, But When I Investigated Further I Found That When I Took My Starter Out Covered The Hole With Duct Tape, and Push Started it There Was No Rattling What So Ever I Never Heard A Motor So Quiet. When I Pulled The Tape Off I Reached In The Starter Hole And The Starter Gear Itself Is Extremely Sloppy And Noisy. I'm New To This Forum And Was Wondering If Anyone Has Heard Of This Or Tried This.....

 

Having the same problem...ever figure it out?

 

Nope, never heard of it. I would be interested in the results, too. Inquiring minds want to know.

 

I'm thinking that I have this problem too, had cam chain/tensioner replaced, but still noisy, sound like a chain but from the bottom end.

Can the starter motor be removed without removing the carbie's?
and is the part in the hole easily replaceable?

 

Dont forget peeps the alternator (which is on the same shaft as the starter) is driven by the engine by a chain and tensioner. These normally have a very long service life but ya never know.

 

Hmmmm. Haven't heard of it and am not familiar with the starter engagement system on our bikes as I've never taken one out, and a the moment I'm a couple hundred miles away from my manuals. But - is it possible that the starter drive is not disengaging when you let go of the starter button? Dang. I won't be back home for a week or so, but once there I'll check it out. Of course, by then you will have a plethora of anwers, which I will also read. Good luck.

 

"Dont forget peeps the alternator (which is on the same shaft as the starter) is driven by the engine by a chain and tensioner."

Is this tensioner adjustable?

 

Yeah, I figure it's the chain but guess I just needed to hear it!ha How big of a job am I looking at? I had some trouble getting the bike to start one day and I think that's when I messed it up. Thanks

 

To replace the alternator chain or tensioner requires splitting the cases and removing the crankshaft. (Thanks honda)

To remove the starter you need to remove the carbies.

You need to split the cases to remove the the starter clutch. (Thanks again Honda )

 

One item that I serviced on mine and wasn't mentioned here is the balance shaft. It has a weight and rubber cushions in it and works just like a rear "cush drive". The little rubber parts are exposed to oil continuously and can become hard, like little briquets. The result is a rattle down low.

The shaft for the thing extends outside the case on the right, just above the oil pan, just below the crankshaft. It is on an eccentric so that at assembly, the lash in the gear can be adjusted to minimal by altering its mesh, depth of engagement. The shaft is exposed and has a screwdriver slot in it. It is held by a pinch clamp that additionally is bolted to the case. There is a ring of cast in radial hash marks used in the adjustment process. These are the external, visible parts. To determine if the noise is directly at that point, remove the right fairing and hold a screwdriver against that part and pressed up to your ear. The sound will be transmitted very clearly and directly to your ear. If the noise is located there you will know it. It will be sharp and crisp, just as if the part was right against your ear. Call it a mechanic's stethoscope.

If that proves to be the source of the noise, I'd be inclined to leave it alone. It can be removed from underneath by removing the pan. I did mine because I had no advise or experience available and was worried it might be a bearing or something and would have been awfully upset if the thing came apart and junked an otherwise good motor. What I found was all of the parts were fine, like new, and it was just the rubber cushions that couldn't really be called rubber anymore. They were like little hard stones and left some excessive lash in the balance shaft. That was the noise I was hearing. This was all around the 80,000 mile mark, maybe more. I replaced the little rubbers and buttoned it up.

If you wanted to do it, have the manual handy. It's not hard but there are timing marks internal on the gears, a specific crank positioning required to clear weights while getting the thing in and out, and the adjustment when it's re-installed. Details that should be read and understood from the manual. Hope that helps.