Downpipe swapout
#2
04-11-2009, 06:43 PM
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#3
04-11-2009, 09:30 PM
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Down pipes
I would agree with Joseph. Unless you use a grenade "grin-aid" on the front of the engine, you will need to drain and remove the radiator.
By the way Joseph, I had a Nevada style Philly Cheese sandwich today..... Send me an original Brother, this thing made me leak from places I don't want to mention!!!!
By the way Joseph, I had a Nevada style Philly Cheese sandwich today..... Send me an original Brother, this thing made me leak from places I don't want to mention!!!!
#4
04-12-2009, 08:40 AM
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#7
04-13-2009, 05:14 PM
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Stuck or sized nuts on studs is a bastard Steve 
Don't know if you managed to get the rest of the nuts off Steve , but I recon I would leave the other studs that did not break in ....unless you are real keen mate ..
They do fatigue and possibly should be swapped after all the years of being heated to death ...but you may find that when you try to remove the rest , that some more will refuse to bloody move and just snap off too..
Its a bit like tossing a coin mate ..
how much work do you want to have to do ??
Don't know if you managed to get the rest of the nuts off Steve , but I recon I would leave the other studs that did not break in ....unless you are real keen mate ..
They do fatigue and possibly should be swapped after all the years of being heated to death ...but you may find that when you try to remove the rest , that some more will refuse to bloody move and just snap off too..
Its a bit like tossing a coin mate ..
how much work do you want to have to do ??
#8
04-13-2009, 05:27 PM
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Stud extraction
Harry_T,
This is one way that I use to extract a snapped stud from a rusted area. Use a pair of vice grips on that puppy and give it a turn (don't force it). If it does not move easy, tap the vice grips with a hammer to set up some vibration in the threaded area.
Before putting the vice grips to it, put some Liquid Wrench or other rust desolver on the stud threads. Give the end of the stud a little rap with a small hammer to set up some vibration. Then a little more Liquid Wrench and let it set while your Jagermister cools in some ice. Come back an hour or so and give it a little rap. Try the vice grips now.
If is does not work, then at least you had a cool drink and are calmer when you work on your old gal.
When you put the new stud back in, use some Never Sieze compound so that it doesn't happen again. Also, just for general information ALWAYS use Never Sieze on Stainless bolts and nuts or they will gaul and sieze up. Of course, the final method of getting a snapped stud out is to use a "heat wrench!" Use a propane torch (heat wrench) on the stud and it will break the rust up, expand at the engine block, then put the vice grips to the stud. It should come out...
P.S. A propane torch on a rusted nut that is jammed on a rusted stud works best, but NEVER just turn the wrench, put the wrench on the hot nut and tap the wrench handle end with a hammer (steel against steel sets up vibration which loosens the rust) in the direction of loose (CCW).
This is one way that I use to extract a snapped stud from a rusted area. Use a pair of vice grips on that puppy and give it a turn (don't force it). If it does not move easy, tap the vice grips with a hammer to set up some vibration in the threaded area.
Before putting the vice grips to it, put some Liquid Wrench or other rust desolver on the stud threads. Give the end of the stud a little rap with a small hammer to set up some vibration. Then a little more Liquid Wrench and let it set while your Jagermister cools in some ice. Come back an hour or so and give it a little rap. Try the vice grips now.
If is does not work, then at least you had a cool drink and are calmer when you work on your old gal.
When you put the new stud back in, use some Never Sieze compound so that it doesn't happen again. Also, just for general information ALWAYS use Never Sieze on Stainless bolts and nuts or they will gaul and sieze up.
Of course, the final method of getting a snapped stud out is to use a "heat wrench!" Use a propane torch (heat wrench) on the stud and it will break the rust up, expand at the engine block, then put the vice grips to the stud. It should come out...P.S. A propane torch on a rusted nut that is jammed on a rusted stud works best, but NEVER just turn the wrench, put the wrench on the hot nut and tap the wrench handle end with a hammer (steel against steel sets up vibration which loosens the rust) in the direction of loose (CCW).
Last edited by CBRriderNevada; 04-13-2009 at 05:45 PM.
#10
04-13-2009, 06:03 PM
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Posts: n/a
Harry_T,
This is one way that I use to extract a snapped stud from a rusted area. Use a pair of vice grips on that puppy and give it a turn (don't force it). If it does not move easy, tap the vice grips with a hammer to set up some vibration in the threaded area.
Before putting the vice grips to it, put some Liquid Wrench or other rust desolver on the stud threads. Give the end of the stud a little rap with a small hammer to set up some vibration. Then a little more Liquid Wrench and let it set while your Jagermister cools in some ice. Come back an hour or so and give it a little rap. Try the vice grips now.
If is does not work, then at least you had a cool drink and are calmer when you work on your old gal.
When you put the new stud back in, use some Never Sieze compound so that it doesn't happen again. Also, just for general information ALWAYS use Never Sieze on Stainless bolts and nuts or they will gaul and sieze up. Of course, the final method of getting a snapped stud out is to use a "heat wrench!" Use a propane torch (heat wrench) on the stud and it will break the rust up, expand at the engine block, then put the vice grips to the stud. It should come out...
P.S. A propane torch on a rusted nut that is jammed on a rusted stud works best, but NEVER just turn the wrench, put the wrench on the hot nut and tap the wrench handle end with a hammer (steel against steel sets up vibration which loosens the rust) in the direction of loose (CCW).
This is one way that I use to extract a snapped stud from a rusted area. Use a pair of vice grips on that puppy and give it a turn (don't force it). If it does not move easy, tap the vice grips with a hammer to set up some vibration in the threaded area.
Before putting the vice grips to it, put some Liquid Wrench or other rust desolver on the stud threads. Give the end of the stud a little rap with a small hammer to set up some vibration. Then a little more Liquid Wrench and let it set while your Jagermister cools in some ice. Come back an hour or so and give it a little rap. Try the vice grips now.
If is does not work, then at least you had a cool drink and are calmer when you work on your old gal.
When you put the new stud back in, use some Never Sieze compound so that it doesn't happen again. Also, just for general information ALWAYS use Never Sieze on Stainless bolts and nuts or they will gaul and sieze up.
Of course, the final method of getting a snapped stud out is to use a "heat wrench!" Use a propane torch (heat wrench) on the stud and it will break the rust up, expand at the engine block, then put the vice grips to the stud. It should come out...P.S. A propane torch on a rusted nut that is jammed on a rusted stud works best, but NEVER just turn the wrench, put the wrench on the hot nut and tap the wrench handle end with a hammer (steel against steel sets up vibration which loosens the rust) in the direction of loose (CCW).
Never heard anything more unrealistic before in all my days !!
Everyone knows that it will take at least 3, maybe more
!! cold cans for the liquid wrench to get in and do its stuff ...Then, after the 3 cold cans you will be totally numb to anymore studs breaking off in your hands
LOL and prolly have the urge to just go sit down for the rest of the day and ponder life as you knew it before you started to pull the bloody headers off in the first place ...LOL
Last edited by CBRclassic; 04-13-2009 at 06:05 PM.