...here's one for you.
Decided to go for a ride, got 8 miles out and bike cut out. Pulled in to lay by, had a look at battery terminals, they were still secure, the dash lights were dim. Sodded about for a bit, pushed the bike to bump it and off she fired.
So , sod this game, and headed home, and after 5 miles it did the same,and again and a forth time.
Managed to get home.
So, it's defiantly electrical, as the dash lights are v.dim, but after a while they brighten....that's when it has enough juice in battery to fire the girl up, by bumping that is, as forget the starter....there's not enough for that.
So the battery is less than 9 months old, but it still could be the plates touching when hot, may be the alternator is packing up, or earth. Gonna have a look tomorrow, but any thoughts by the ever helpful lot you are, is welcome
Friggin machines

 

I always say this, but check the started solenoid, they have a tendency to melt

It's happened to me on both the CBR 1000F and the 900RR.

 

I'm leaning toward the R/R.

Break out the multimeter and open up the How-to's or try and recreate the situation and feel for excessive heat in the unit. Do Hurricanes in the UK have full time headlamps? See if there is any fluctuation in the lamps in respect to revs.

Good luck to ya'

 

Yes, thanks guys. It clearly is something that gets to a certain temperature and decides to cut out, its like it's creating an almost direct short temporarily, with barely any power in the battery. Leave it for a bit and I can bump start it.
My battery was on charge last night so will have a look later.

 

Ok. So battery charged, independent means. Reconnect to bike. Start her up, and so did a basic check to see if alternator is charging. It appears not. Recon I should be getting 13.8/14.4dcv to battery but no change with several revs etc.
With multimeter still connected, put lights on full beam, and watch the volts slowly getting less and less albeit by .01 of a volt, but definitely lessening.
So my thoughts are with the charging system......what do you recon.
As for the rectifyer testing, the book is a little confusing, but think it's saying test the yellow wires, i.e. One probe on a yellow wire, lets say wire 1, then probe on the other yellow wire, of which go to the other yellow wire and check the ohms. I've done that on all three in turn and have a reading of zero in all cases, this is with the engine off btw. But should there be a reading of say 0.2 ish on all wires tested.

 

Ok. So took cover off stator rotor area to access pulsar coil, checked the ohms and that reading is within parameters of book. Ok there then.
Took, earth off to frame, clean, but gave another one, as well as all terminals too and from r/r and alternator connector block, still no charge to battery. Also checked solenoid terminals, all ok there .Alternator is leading to being the culprit .Any thing else for me to check .?

 

Where are you testing from? If you are checking the yellow wires going down to the ALT you should see a reading like a short between each Yellow wire (0-0.1Ω). If you are checking the terminals on the R/R itself, you should see a reading like an open circuit (∞Ω).

I'm with Woof about the R/R. With age they fail.

 

ok, so in the pleasant warm or the day, I have tested the wires from the alternator, there are 3 yellow, one white and one black. All this with unit removed from engine.
And I've tested so many wires, from all over the place that I'm now utterly confused as to what reads what and where., holy moly.
What I did do was disconnect the first plug off alt. Started engine, put test meter on 50 volts setting, and probed away, there appears to be zero output , i.e. there was no reading from unit itself, but knowing me I'm probably not testing the correct wires, but did try many ways.
Back in shed now thinking is it r/r or alt.
What is the basic test for the stator/alt with it out or in the bike frame.

 

Ok, so rectifier is off bike. The diode readings are all zero one way, and the other way there is a reading of 489, 497, 493. Which all seem well within. Also there are no indications of hot terminals around this unit. Recon alternator is the culprit