CBR 1000F "Hurricane" 1987-1996 CBR 1000F

Compresion check

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  #11  
Old 07-12-2012, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by MadHattr059
Check your manual for the location of the timing marks on your particular bike.
Hah If only I had one.


Originally Posted by MadHattr059
You might also, do a search for valve-adjustment on these forums for some general
guidelines, as well.
Guidelines on finding the top of each cylinder? On a car i put a screwdriver in the cylinder and turn the motor over till it tops out. kinda hesitant doing this on a motor i know nothing about.

Originally Posted by MadHattr059
P.s. All of the info I've posted has been located in mere moments by googling in a
seperate tab, as I respond to your inquirys. ;-)
Ern
Umm yeah I googled the compression after i read the links you dropped. I'm capable of running a search but I'm here to talk to experts that can point me to the correct way to do things not to wade through 50 links trying to find the guy who knows what he's doing.


Originally Posted by MadHattr059
Don't despair, run the checks again with a warm engine and your new insights.

Could be you've just not done a proper test the first time.

You've never stated what prompted you to do the test in the first place.
How's the bike currently running?

If it's running fine, sure there's always room for improvement, but it's not the end of the world. ;-)
Also, read my sig. I would wait for more feed-back from other members, too.
I'm a decent wrencher, but NOT a professional, by either vocation or training. lol

Ern
The bike has no power, the PO said it just lost power when on the highway. I'm doing a coil job and while i'm waiting on the sticks I'd like to see what shape it's in so the first thing i though of was to check compression as that is what i would do on a car engine that was running weak.
 
  #12  
Old 07-12-2012, 09:49 PM
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The easiest way to find tdc without pulling the valve cover is:
Put it on rear stand.
Pull the plugs.
Put the bike in 3rd or 4th gear.
Bump around the tire in a forward direction until you feel air blow out #1 hole.
Put a long skinny object in #1such as a screwdriver or a cut hanger
Turn the wheel until the rod doesn't go up anymore. You have just found tdc compression stroke.
Repeat for other cylinders. Next one on compression is the next in the firing order.

Do the compression test again. If the numbers are low, squirt a litte oil in each hole and test again. If the numbers increase, your rings are bad. If they don't, its in the top end.
 
  #13  
Old 07-12-2012, 09:53 PM
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If you do end up taking off the cover, verify the timing marks. If a cam is off a tooth, it can cause loss of compression and power.
 
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Old 07-12-2012, 10:40 PM
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I've done several compression checks on older car engines. The engine has to be warm and the carburetor throttle has to be wide open to let air into the cylinder. I also did a compression test on my old Suzuki GS 1000. It has the carburetor piston/needle hooked directly to the throttle cable, so if the throttle cable is wide open, the piston is raised to the top.

Our CBR's use constant velocity carbs. With the engine off, opening the throttle wide open does not raise the piston/needle. That operates off venturi, the amount of air rushing past the throttle plate and underneath the piston. Could the low pressure readings result from the piston/needle and the throttle plate being closed? I would like to see a reading on the same cylinders with the throttle plate wide open and the piston/needle held up with a finger or other mechanism. I am going to get a 12mm adapter to test my own.
 
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Old 07-13-2012, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by 74demon
The easiest way to find tdc without pulling the valve cover is:
Put it on rear stand.
Pull the plugs.
Put the bike in 3rd or 4th gear.
Bump around the tire in a forward direction until you feel air blow out #1 hole.
Put a long skinny object in #1such as a screwdriver or a cut hanger
Turn the wheel until the rod doesn't go up anymore. You have just found tdc compression stroke.
Repeat for other cylinders. Next one on compression is the next in the firing order.

Do the compression test again. If the numbers are low, squirt a litte oil in each hole and test again. If the numbers increase, your rings are bad. If they don't, its in the top end.
THX man, This is exactly the info I needed!

I'll see if i can get to it this weekend.


Originally Posted by slowpoke
I've done several compression checks on older car engines. The engine has to be warm and the carburetor throttle has to be wide open to let air into the cylinder. I also did a compression test on my old Suzuki GS 1000. It has the carburetor piston/needle hooked directly to the throttle cable, so if the throttle cable is wide open, the piston is raised to the top.

Our CBR's use constant velocity carbs. With the engine off, opening the throttle wide open does not raise the piston/needle. That operates off venturi, the amount of air rushing past the throttle plate and underneath the piston. Could the low pressure readings result from the piston/needle and the throttle plate being closed? I would like to see a reading on the same cylinders with the throttle plate wide open and the piston/needle held up with a finger or other mechanism. I am going to get a 12mm adapter to test my own.
I allowed the engine to turn over for a good 20 seconds so i'm pretty sure It had enough strokes to get intake. I always go a few beyond when the compression tops out. Here's a link to the adapter i got (best price i could find got here in 4 days).

KASTAR 73103 12MM COMPRESSION TESTER ADAPTER | eBay
 
  #16  
Old 07-14-2012, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by slowpoke
I've done several compression checks on older car engines. The engine has to be warm and the carburetor throttle has to be wide open to let air into the cylinder.
Good point there.
 
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Old 07-17-2012, 03:37 AM
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I just bought a compression tester and am going to test both my bikes ( 89 and 92 ) when I get the time. Haynes says 177 psi plus or minus 28 psi for the Mk2. My bikes go fine I'm just interested to see what the readings are. I like fiddling......lol. I'm going to do them in conjunction with a carb balance ( when the carbtune arrives ) and a radiator pressure test as well. I love working on these old girls. They are a pleasure to work on and its good knowing you've done it yourself and you know its right.
 
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Old 07-17-2012, 04:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Bordo
I just bought a compression tester and am going to test both my bikes ( 89 and 92 ) when I get the time. Haynes says 177 psi plus or minus 28 psi for the Mk2. My bikes go fine I'm just interested to see what the readings are. I like fiddling......lol. I'm going to do them in conjunction with a carb balance ( when the carbtune arrives ) and a radiator pressure test as well. I love working on these old girls. They are a pleasure to work on and its good knowing you've done it yourself and you know its right.

I wouldn't ride a bike any other way Bordo. Piece of mind is so important to me when I twist the throttle or grab that brake lever!

Cheers, SB
 
  #19  
Old 07-21-2012, 05:41 PM
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Got the coil sticks in today so I'll shoot for getting them installed tomorrow and do another test. Had it running yesterday and after fixing the wiring on the old coils it was firing much better and is coming back to life. I'm doing a carb synch as well tomorrow when my Dad gets by with the gauges. Also got the fairings back from the painter today. Lost all the bolts! Dammit I spent hours trying to find them today. I hung what I could with a few spare bolts i had hanging around but i gotta order all new ones. Are there entire fairing bolt sets or do i have to figure what threads i need individually and then order them? Also I still have to get a few fairing pieces to complete the set. This bike was in real sad shape.

upload a pic in a few.

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Last edited by Hueristic; 07-21-2012 at 06:05 PM.
  #20  
Old 07-21-2012, 09:31 PM
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Nice colour, your best bet for the bolts/fasteners would be flea-bay(if you want them cheap)
 


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