Clutch experts...need your help
 

Hello my friends. It's been awhile since I posted, but here I am. OK, so some of you may remember that last I was unhappy with my shifting at higher speeds. After much analysis and practicing, things weren't getting better. I rode a few other bikes and came to the realization that something was not quite right with my old CBR. So this winter I decided to dig into it and see what might be going on. I took the clutch apart, thinking that perhaps some discs were warped, or that the springs may be weak, or other. I pulled it all apart, and saw nothing out of the ordinary except a few blued spots on the steel discs. The friction discs looked great, and measured perfect in the allowable thickness range. I replaced all the steel discs, the 5 springs, and the 12 point nut. I put it all back together in the right order, and torqued everything down. The clutch actuates just fine. I had the foresight to measure the depth of the clutch lifter plate to the edge of the outer clutch lip. I also measured the travel of the clutch lifter plate as it moved in and out when actuated with the clutch lever. Measurements are spot on to before disassembly. My issues is that in neutral, the bike is very hard to move. It feels as if the plates are dragging. I did oil the friction and steels discs as the manual states to do this otherwise the plates can stick...which is what this feels like. I am convinced I assembled everything correctly. I have yet to put the cover on and fill the oil pan as I am now pulling the water pump, drive sprocket, clutch slave cylinder and shifter assy. So, does anyone have any experience with this? Is this simply a case of the new plates not having been immersed in oil and them sticking and causing a drag? Thanks all.

In neutral, with the clutch engaged, well, the clutch is engaged. There is no slipping unless the clutch has some major issue.

Normally, oil viscosity in the transmission will cause some small transfer of energy to the rear wheel, but that energy is in a forward direction. Any bike with a centerstand or a rear stand to get the rear wheel off the ground will show this: engine running, bike in neutral, rear wheel off the ground and the wheel will turn gently in a forward direction.

You don't say whether this rolling resistance ceases with the engine off, or if the clutch is disengaged. Or what happens if you remove the chain. Or the rear brake caliper. Or even if the issue is some problem in the front wheel and not the rear.

We're missing something simple here, 'cause your problem description is a bit bizarre. Some simple and logical troubleshooting is needed.

I read through my problem description, and you're right...it's confusing and incorrect! Take 2...

Engine off, transmission in 1st gear, hold clutch in (disengaged), try to roll motorcycle by duck walking....very difficult. I suspect it's because of new discs and perhaps not as lubricated as it should be, but I'm looking for opinions.

Hi , the only thing I can think of at present is did you put the judder spring and spring seat in the right way round and the correct clutch disc (the one with the bigger inner circumference) on next, found a video which will show what I mean

Good thoughts, but I am 100% certain that I put the Spring Seat, Judder Spring and Clutch Disc B in correctly.

Yes easy mistake to make with that disc:)

OK, took advantage of the "nice" weather last night and tore it all apart again. Everything was correct. This time I soaked the friction plates in oil for about 5 minutes and coated everything when putting it all back together. Same issue. But, I noticed that the paint around the clutch slave cylinder was peeling off...a clue that brake fluid was leaking out of the slave cylinder. Upon closer inspection, there is a leak. So it's possible that the clutch isn't releasing fully when the clutch lever is pulled in. Took the water pump pump and hoses off, and then the slave cylinder. Inside was pretty gunked up, and sure enough it was leaking. Rebuild time. Next is to take apart the shifter mechanism, as I'm suspecting some worn parts in the detents.

Probably sounds like it could do with a service and new clutch cylinder oil anyway , hope this sorts it for you:)

Quick question.

What crankcase oil are using?

Also I seem to remember one of the fiber plates, the first has to go on in same order as removal it's different from the others

STEP : 9

Here's Malbojah's Superb Clutch Thread from way back

https://cbrforum.com/forum/how-tos-8...ven-try-95943/