Cleaning my carbs
#11
#13
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#14
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Maybe a boat shop for the filter, Tom - I had them on my boat and the glass ones are good (seriously) and have really fine mesh.
BTW - try Quik Start (or the equivalent) - it has a good percentage of ether in it and goes through the smallest jets.....just not too much, ether and rubber don't work well together and there are small o rings in the air correction jets, and other places.....
BTW - try Quik Start (or the equivalent) - it has a good percentage of ether in it and goes through the smallest jets.....just not too much, ether and rubber don't work well together and there are small o rings in the air correction jets, and other places.....
#15
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The early canes had an in-line filter as standard. Even having one of these fitted I still have trouble from time to time with rust. It's surprising just how fine it is but still large enough to foul the pilot jets. Many paint supply places sell treatment kits that clean & coat the inside of the fuel tank at reasonable prices. I priced one here for about $90. Water is also another problem but easy to deal with. Just a little methylated spirits (alcohol) absorbs the water & pulls it through the jets & filters.
#16
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Well carbs are finally cleared, just took forever soaking and blowing out with air. I did leave the pilot screws alone
all the jets are clear and clean, i just put the carbs back on the bike and it is running now.
New problems![Smile](https://cbrforum.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
1 when i was removing the carbs the left side air box connector to the carbs came loose. i am guessing i can use rtv to re-seal it?
2 Also now when i set the idle speed on the left hand side of the bike and choke to start it races real high. i'm thinking i need to resync the carbs, i have the sync tool.
I am heading to the auto store to get some decent rtv to seal the air box, then i will start to re=syncing them.
Any other issues anyone can think of?
Thanks
![Smile](https://cbrforum.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
New problems
![Smile](https://cbrforum.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
1 when i was removing the carbs the left side air box connector to the carbs came loose. i am guessing i can use rtv to re-seal it?
2 Also now when i set the idle speed on the left hand side of the bike and choke to start it races real high. i'm thinking i need to resync the carbs, i have the sync tool.
I am heading to the auto store to get some decent rtv to seal the air box, then i will start to re=syncing them.
Any other issues anyone can think of?
Thanks
#17
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Hotswap,
1. You'll have to seal it some way. I know exactly what you mean. RTV will probably work ok. I always thought that design was kinda questionable....
2. How much do the RPMs spike up? It's normal to go up to 2-3k. Most do.
I'm sure a sync will help, though.
I can't really think of anything else at the moment. Sounds like you did a good job on her.
1. You'll have to seal it some way. I know exactly what you mean. RTV will probably work ok. I always thought that design was kinda questionable....
2. How much do the RPMs spike up? It's normal to go up to 2-3k. Most do.
I'm sure a sync will help, though.
I can't really think of anything else at the moment. Sounds like you did a good job on her.
#18
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if i adjust the idle so that it will idle about 1200 without the choke, when i choke it, it goes to like 8k. if i adjust the idle with the choke on to what it use to be like 3500, and then turn the choke off it will die. im thinking the sync should fix that. but the airbox might be causing some of that problem as well. I got some black rtv, that stays flexible when cured. hoping it will seal it up and hold. then i will sync it later tonight or tomorrow when it has had time to cure.
Last question i am dreading the answer, do i need to pull the airbox to seal it? i have to pull the carbs again to get the air box out, but those connectors seems so fragile i would hate to go back to that and then have both sides of the airbox loose.
Last question i am dreading the answer, do i need to pull the airbox to seal it? i have to pull the carbs again to get the air box out, but those connectors seems so fragile i would hate to go back to that and then have both sides of the airbox loose.
#19
#20
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Ok almost synced
I could not believe how far out everything was after the cleaning. The only problem i am having now is throttle response.
If i blip the throttle, it does not always idle back to 1200-1500 sometimes it will hang at about 3500-4000 for about a minute then slowly drop.
the carbs are close within 1 bar of each other, but the bike will not hold an idle at 1k for more than 30-45 seconds. it continues to slow down and then dies like it is starved. it will fire right back up, but no more 1k idle for me 1200-1500 seems to be the new sweet spot.
All of the burble and pop is gone from the engine/exhaust as well, so i know i am close.
Any thing else to look at while i have her open. i think i will button her up and ride her for the week and see how things go.
![Smile](https://cbrforum.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
If i blip the throttle, it does not always idle back to 1200-1500 sometimes it will hang at about 3500-4000 for about a minute then slowly drop.
the carbs are close within 1 bar of each other, but the bike will not hold an idle at 1k for more than 30-45 seconds. it continues to slow down and then dies like it is starved. it will fire right back up, but no more 1k idle for me 1200-1500 seems to be the new sweet spot.
All of the burble and pop is gone from the engine/exhaust as well, so i know i am close.
Any thing else to look at while i have her open. i think i will button her up and ride her for the week and see how things go.