chain snap link question
#1
chain snap link question
I know most prefer the rivet, I do too, however my internet chain came with a snap link and I need my bike while I am waiting for the rivet link they sent me in the mail. However, as this is the first o ring snap link I have done, I am having a difficult tome compressing the face link enough to get the clip on. Vey tight fit and those o rings don't like compressing.. Any best practices I could use to do this? Solutions most likely right in front of me, but it's about 100 in this garage and my brain is fried.
#3
I just went through that about a week ago. I had the tool to do it, but didnt know it. After many attempts doing it my way I started looking at all the pieces that came with the tool set(Motion Pro) and realized it had pieces specially made for that.
Maybe someone else here has a special technique they can tell you to use without the chain tool. I dont know of one. I know it could be possible, but not easy without the tool.
The tool I have will compress the plate far enough down to get a clip on. Without it, it's very difficult to press that plate on with O rings pushing against it.
Maybe someone else here has a special technique they can tell you to use without the chain tool. I dont know of one. I know it could be possible, but not easy without the tool.
The tool I have will compress the plate far enough down to get a clip on. Without it, it's very difficult to press that plate on with O rings pushing against it.
#4
Let me add this. If you find a way to start pressing the face on, make sure you have some way to hold the rivets on the back side. If you dont, they will start pressing back out because it takes quite a bit of pressure to get the plate far enough down to get the clip on.
You might be able to use a C clamp to do it. Be methodical, a little at a time and evenly.
You might be able to use a C clamp to do it. Be methodical, a little at a time and evenly.
#5
#8
I've found it a lot easier on the old chain of grinding the rivets down to 'break' them.
As important as the integrity of the chain is, get the tool. Motion Pro seems to be the consensus (me too), although there are others on the market.Added bonus, you have the option of buying a rivet-type master link for about $3-$5 and rolling that way, if you wish.
Without the tool, I'd recommend just paying a bike shop to do it. It'll take about 1 1/2 trips to the service dept. to pay for the tool. You'll have to decide if you ride enough to be worth it.
Ok folks, don't beat me-up (I know a lot of you folks slam down 15k+ a year), but the average mileage, for a lot of the bikers out there, is probably close to maybe 5k-6k/year. My average chain lasts me about 18-20k, so if I do 10k a year that's 2 years+ before I get my money back on the tool purchase. I almost didn't bother, but for the OTHER reason to get the tool...I'm a bit **** about who does the work on my bike. That would be ME. ;-)
Ern
As important as the integrity of the chain is, get the tool. Motion Pro seems to be the consensus (me too), although there are others on the market.Added bonus, you have the option of buying a rivet-type master link for about $3-$5 and rolling that way, if you wish.
Without the tool, I'd recommend just paying a bike shop to do it. It'll take about 1 1/2 trips to the service dept. to pay for the tool. You'll have to decide if you ride enough to be worth it.
Ok folks, don't beat me-up (I know a lot of you folks slam down 15k+ a year), but the average mileage, for a lot of the bikers out there, is probably close to maybe 5k-6k/year. My average chain lasts me about 18-20k, so if I do 10k a year that's 2 years+ before I get my money back on the tool purchase. I almost didn't bother, but for the OTHER reason to get the tool...I'm a bit **** about who does the work on my bike. That would be ME. ;-)
Ern
#9