I was wondering if any one has used such a kit, including jets and gaskets and needle shut off valves etc. Did you do it, and did it make any difference to the overall running, or was it the worst thing you did.
As I see some kits are available in the U.S.
Thanks.

 

Hey Bullroarer,

What issues are you seeing with your bike's running that have you thinking a carb overhaul is the solution? Leaking bowls? Idle hanging or surging? Rough running?

The bowl gaskets and complete rebuild kits can be found on eBay easily for the Gen1 87-88 and 93+ bikes, and Gen2 90-93' years use the Gen1 carbs. The kits do NOT come with orings for the fuel tees or vent tees that are located between carbs. You'll need to order those from Honda, or bring a tee fitting and old o-ring to a parts house the specializes in o-rings and get new ones like I did for cheap. Other than the o-rings and bowl gaskets, the jets can be easily cleaned with a can of carb cleaner and some patience.

If your bike is leaking fuel out of the vent hose on the top tee, the float valve is either stuck, or needs replacing. Those are easy to find as well on eBay using the same model year groups above.

 

Hi Brian
Trouble is, I cannot help myself taking things apart, cleaning them, and making the bits all lovely; however the running of the black and red one, `91 is running a bit rough, or better still , I think it could be smoother. I did a carb balancer, when hot, a reading on all four together, and the reading came back as possible leak on all inlet manifolds or valve timing out. Well, surely the valve timing cannot be out, or it would not run at all...? So what about the leak on the inlet manifold? All clips are tight, cannot see any signs of cracking, would a slight leak on the T swivel joint give this reading.
Someone said to me that perhaps the diaphrams are perforated, as these are thin, and any air leaking through can cause rough running, so not sure really. I went for a spin on it today, and she still goes well, but can stall at tick over on the odd occasion.
Ant thoughts ? Anyone ?

 

nrp carbs do some repair kits and diaphrams ect, the also rebuild the carbs for you, I have ordered parts off them and they are very helpful, heres rhe link Search


this just a few of the bits, search the site or give them a call

 

Rough running could be a few things:

• One (or multiple carbs) have an air leak at the intake boot. I had this very issue. Being 24 years old, my 91's boots were rock hard and wouldn't seal on the head. I verified my problem by spraying around the intake boots while it was running. The bike would surge and rev up on the carbs with air leaks. Once I sprung for 4 new ones and swapped over the clamps, I was finally able to complete a proper carb balance and the bike is so smooth now.

• One or more carbs is out of adjustment, or the float is leaking. If you've already checked the idle mix screws are all the same across the board, the float valve may not be sealing on the valve seat, allow more fuel to fill the bowl. A higher fuel level in the bowl means more fuel delivered through the idle jet. Again, being more than 20 years old, it might be good insurance to replace all four float valves (they're about $8 each in the US) and clean the float valve seat really good with a Q-tip and some carb cleaner. Being brass, and not a moving part, the only issue you might have with the seats is varnish that would prevent a good seal on the viton-rubber valve seat tip. Be sure to pull each seat and check the in-line fuel screen behind it as well. It's one of two screens in the fuel system and does catch crud that makes it past the fuel screen on the petcock in the tank.

• If neither of these issues are present, my last stop would be to pull the valve cover and check the valve lash. If one or several of them are extremely tight, it might be keeping the valve from fully seating under spring pressure. This would cause a weak cylinder, and rough running.

If the carb diaphram was punctured the symptom would be no or poor throttle response, lack of midrange power and rough running. The slides on a CV carb operate on vacuum and use the void above the diaphram to pull the slides up under throttle inputs and rising engine RPM. They would also cause an air leak in the carb if torn. A visual inspection of each under a bright light would be your best bet.

Good luck and keep us posted on your research results!

 

Thankyou for your help in this matter. I will try the inlet rubbers first, when I have a few days off, ie when its raining lots.