I hate to be a stick in the mud but,if the bike is running fine and then dies, why would it be the RR?
If the battery is up and the bike starts again it does not sound like a RR problem. Perhaps something like a faulty kill switch or side stand switch.

When the bike dies is the headlamp dull, is the battery voltage below 8 volts, is there a lack of power before it quits?

If the bike just hauls off and quits and restarts, there is a break in conductivity I would think. I don't know for sure. The only experience I have with a bad RR is that the bikes I was on at the time ran off the battery until the voltage was not high enough to get a hot spark and the bike lost power and then died and could not be restarted without charging the battery. I have had tihis happen on different bikes and with cars when the alt craped out.

This is just my two cents and am courious about the outcome.

 

Ah, well it's kind of a side problem? My voltmeter says it charges at about 15v when above 3kRPM. So any any rate, the RR probably needs to be replaced.

 

The reason for replacing the R/R is that the voltage over the battery was measured to 15.3 volts or something very high like this with aFluke meter, such voltage will kill the battery in no-time. I fully agree that if the bike has runned OK, died suddenlyand then started fineandrunned normal again, this indicates a different problem..

 

Ihad a similar experience before, after I had replaced headlight bulbs with some fancy halogens. The draw of those halogens generated a lot of heat through the wires, causing some melting. See my thread on "Halogen bulb misfortunes". This melting probably caused loss of proper contact at the 4 pin mainslocated next to the battery (somewhere close to the right knee when sitting on the bike). Upon cooling the contacts probably get restored.This fancy halogens didfurther damage. It caused my RR to go bad, andmade a lot of wires get hardened.Ittook out my battery too.
Problem was solvedwhen I threw out the halogens and went back to stock bulbs. But not before I had got a newstock RR, and a battery.
I would like to believe that we may not understand all there is to the electrical workings of the hurricane, and we ask for trouble when we modify the electrical loads.
I suggest you replace your hids with stock, and see what happens.

 

So, did the R1 R/R work the way you wired it up?? I'm working on the same issue now. I think my stator is gone as well also. Measured 1 VAC from the 3 yellow wires with bike running up to 5,000 RPM. I have 3 resources for aftermarket R/R but the R1 used here: ( http://www.vlc.com.au/~justin/about/...g_replace.html)seems to be the way to fix the long termproblem. I'm working on a 1993 CBR1000F(P) with approx. 40,200 miles on it.

 

Just a small side note:One of my meters statered give a higher that expected reading, this was confirmed by my seconded meter.
I then checked the meters battery and found it to be a little low, after replament, the meter read fine. - it was no a Fluke.

 

Not all RRs are the same - if you want factual details, look at my report here...

http://tinyurl.com/6fnjdq

HONDA REGULATOR RECTIFIER - Replacement – for CB-750, CBR-1000, CBR-1000F, ST-1100. (SHINDINGEN # SH261-12).pdf

 

Mike - dont jump to conclusions. Take facts as the basis for your decision making process.
The specification for your Honda RR is 12.6 to 15v. (See Workshop manual page 21-10).
So dont be alarmed by the 15v ... it will regulate to this voltage if it "see's" a need... ie battery voltage low on high drain (from lights?).

I've dont a lot of work on this ... see the reportin my previous posting. Save yourself time and angst - work from facts.

 

Mike and others thinking of replacing RRs - learn from others in this forum who have great experience in this ... like the highly regarded SHADOW for example....
"Secondly, why on earth would you want to fit an R1 R/R to a Hurricane ????? Asking for trouble IMHO- a Hurricane has, I believe, 3 field current wires,(yellow)1 Blue wire , one black wire, and a green earth wire, and there are plenty of documented cases of guys (like me) having had problems with the standard[/b] fitting R/R without trying to complicate matters even further by fitting something off a Yamaha (YUCK) Certain R/R's are designed for use with brushless alternators, some not. Yamaha parts are NOT designed for Honda CBR 1000F's. I have an R/R from a Fireblade - that has 5 wires...........I wouldn't even think of trying to fit it. If you want wiring diagrams, I'll send them to you, but do yourself a favour - concentrate on the normal mundane things that happen to Hurricanes ( like r/r's, camchains and tensioners, tuning of carbs, setting valve clearances, and general maintenance) and STAY AWAY[/b][/u] from messing with the reg/reg if it's working OK- believe me, you don't know what you're getting into .......I've had 5 r/r's , two stators, and two batteries in the last 3 years...... "

See this forum link....
RE: Fit alternate R/R to '97 1000F
https://cbrforum.com/m_483585/mpage_3/key_/tm.htm

 

Your write up is excellent. I've been chasing the problem for 4 days now. I bought my bike 2 months ago and it has quit on me while riding. this is the 2nd time. After much research I believe the R/R is bad. I did the chcks from the Honda service manual and results all show the R/R as bad. What is your opinion of the item below? I'm willing to get the R/R from Electrex World Limited but, would like to avoid some of the shipping if I can by getting the one below. If no one has long time experience with the one pictured below then I'll go with the recommended.

I checked my AC volts with the bike running @ 5000 RPM atthe 3 Yellow wires coming from the Alternator and found that there was only 1 volt on each. I then pulled the cover off. 2 of the bolts were loose and the holes seem to be stripped. Would the cover not being tightened correctly be the reason for the poor voltage? By the way the cover is new, the R/R looks new, and the battery was new. The bike was purchased from a small dealer in Daytona Beach, Fl. It seems they did not know what they were dealing with and did a band-aid fix just to sell the bike. Any input on my 2 questions will be greatly appreciated and brews for anyone coming to bike week in February 2009.