Perhaps you should do a compression check if 2 carbies are out at 5,000 rpm

 

hey dram
is that the stock cct
if it is they had trouble
with them and made a change to them
the new ones moves down lower and keeps the cam chain
and the guide is thicker too
tighter just went through all that

 

"just out of curiosity, what vacuum does your bike have at idle? mine is about 6-8" Hg"

About 15 Hg(?) idle. I'm assuming Hg, but my guage is not labeled as to units measured. It could be cm. All that matters according to the manual is that all four be the same.

To find the idle adjustment screws on my '91 it had to get a flashlight and look down the front side of the carbs. I can now find them with the tank on but still use the flashlight on #1. By the way, the #2 carb is the reference carb and doesn't have an adjustment screw. That could be why you couldn't find it.

If you have a miss when the bike is hot you might want to check you valve clearance. A tight valve might not seat completely when the engine is hot. Not sure about your year, but the '91 manual says you have a +/- of .001", my mechanic says to head for the + side when setting the valves.

MarkR: Thanks. Did it. Not sure how accurate my guage is since it got dropped, but all four show within a pound of 160.

Greymustang: Thanks for the headsup. As far as I know it's the stock CCT. I'm going to replace it in a few weeks when there's snow on the ground. Right now getting the house ready for winter is taking my spare time.

FWIW, my son suggested I may have a blocked muffler and wondered if the 1-4 fed on pipe and the 2-3 fed the other. I'll have to check that out too. Right now I'm leaning toward the carburetor diaphram theory since that will the the most difficult to deal with. It's never the simple stuff.

Thanks everyone for your advice.

DRam

 

maybe I should clarifiy, I know where the idle SPEED adjustment screws are.. what I'm looking for on the #2 and #3 carbs are the MIXTURE screws, on 1 and 4 they are on the outside bottom front of the carb. I will probably do the cam chain tensioner this winter as well, bike has 25000 miles on it... what I notice is really noisy is the alternator.. .not sure if it's just that or the alternator chain. it's not a rattle or clunk, more like a whine... and I know it's been recently replaced

as for my hot idle missfire, i think I was having plug wire problems with the #1 wire.. what size socket do you need to get the spark plugs out? 3/4" (19mm)? I know the standard 13/16th and 5/8th don't fit... and a 17 didn't fit either.. just want to make sure before go buy one.

I also had trouble with the battery being weak, taking forever to charge, and discharging quickly when cranking.. it was about 500 ml low on water, so off to the store for some distilled water and i think that's fixed... there was BARELY any water in it at all, so it's probably on it's last legs due to neglect

 

So, If I got a new CCT from Honda, they would give me the new improved one, or do I have to specify or go after market?

The bike is going to the bike shop in a couple of weeks to get a new cam chain and a full service.

 

also, I don't see how it would be possible, but is there any way to replace the cam chain without splitting the bottom end?

 

There's idle speed adjuster, idle mixture adjusters, and synchronization screws. The mixture screws for carbs 2 and 3 are in the same place as carbs 1 and 4. But there's a Catch 22. You can adjust them when the carbs are off the bike, but you can't reach them when the carbs are mounted. Since Rx7man is a machinist, he will probably come up with a home-made tool for reaching those screws.

18mm longwall socket.

 

WHY did the decide to go with such an oddball size?? damn them to hell, was there anything wrong with a 5/8th head???

well, it sure sounds like I have my work cut out for me adjusting those mixture screws... If I manage to make a tool.. what should I sell them for? $100??? lol I think they are a little too lean, I just can't get the bike to be happy idling at 1000 rpm, and it hunts if you try and bring it up to 2000, I find you can't gradually open the throttle and the RPM increases, there's a flat spot just off idle which will make you overshoot and go to 4000 RPM... meanwhile, if you go to make it idle at 900, it will just stall out, most vehicles I've seen that are supposed to idle at X rpm, are often capable of idling at X-300 RPM as well
For the hunting problem, is it possible to lift the slider needle up? I haven't taken it apart yet, and I know that my old motorcylce carbs had a little C clip holding the needle so that you could change the mixture for part throttle operation... is it the same on these carbs?

 

OK, one more quick question regarding that idle mixture screw... on the number 2 carb, is it onthe left side, and on the right side on the #3 carb?

 

if you buy one from the dealer
it will be a improved one
you don't have to ask
for it