Brakes
#11
12-20-2012, 04:27 PM
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Your description is rather vague, more detail of the issue would help.
A bit of history helps, as does details of the bike (make-model and year).
That said, based on your comments...
There are a quite a few possibilities.
Bad/leaky fork seals.
Loose/bad steering head bearings.
Tripple trees out of alignment.
Caliper piston sticking, on the side that "pulls".
Rear caliper piston sticking.
Wheel bearings going out.
Or a combination of, all/some, of the above.
You might consider doing an inspection/maintenance of all of these areas.
Most of the areas have pretty detailed how-to's, in the general mechanics forum.
Try a couple of searches there for the specific tasks.
Hope this helps, Ern
A bit of history helps, as does details of the bike (make-model and year).
That said, based on your comments...
There are a quite a few possibilities.
Bad/leaky fork seals.
Loose/bad steering head bearings.
Tripple trees out of alignment.
Caliper piston sticking, on the side that "pulls".
Rear caliper piston sticking.
Wheel bearings going out.
Or a combination of, all/some, of the above.
You might consider doing an inspection/maintenance of all of these areas.
Most of the areas have pretty detailed how-to's, in the general mechanics forum.
Try a couple of searches there for the specific tasks.
Hope this helps, Ern
Hi thanks for this. It is a Honda 1000H year is 1987 but has been rebuilt in the past and is really a 1993.
I was on the foot brake a lot because we all had to go real slow for a charity run. Rode home all seemed ok took the bike out four days later and I could just push it out the garage and felt twitchy when riding it with a ull to the left.
I will take your advice and have a go
Sorry for being vague fair point
Cheers many thanks
The easy check for a sticky caliper is simple.
Go for a quick blat around the block, pull up at home and quickly take your gloves off. This next bit is the part where you really need to "man up", quickly grab both of the front discs with your hands.
If one of them makes you go "Holy ****, that's hot", you have identified the sticky caliper.
Once you've done this test, report back, and we'll start working through what you need to do next.
Cheers
TK
Go for a quick blat around the block, pull up at home and quickly take your gloves off. This next bit is the part where you really need to "man up", quickly grab both of the front discs with your hands.
If one of them makes you go "Holy ****, that's hot", you have identified the sticky caliper.
Once you've done this test, report back, and we'll start working through what you need to do next.
Cheers
TK
You guys honestly very fuunu
cbr 1000h 1993
Hi from Croydon to Tadworth children's hospital doing about 10mph for 4hours good cause, good fun
To one and all thx for the advise lots to try taking time, taking the p*** made me laugh out loud. Can only type with one finger forgot the gloves and water. Can't I just hit the calliper with a hammer once my hands have healed
Last edited by Sprock; 12-20-2012 at 08:55 PM. Reason: the amazing Walshy Multi Posts
#12
12-20-2012, 09:31 PM
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Location: Denver, Colorado
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As I've gotten older, I've gotten a lot lazier. Instead of messing with the inside of the calipers, the first thing I would check is the pins that the brake pads and the caliper itself slides on. The ones for the brake pads are a soft metal and seem to wear down. They get a divot in them and the brake pad can stick against the rotor, or even away from them. Then the brake is grabby.
If the pin that the caliper slides on is sticky, the pads opposite the pistons won't work as well as they should. If you take out the brake pads and one is worn down and the other isn't, you have a sticky caliper pin. Or a sticky piston depending on which brake pad is worn. Anyway, I would take both pins out and if they are not as smooth as a baby's a$$, I would replace them.
On my 1990, the pins are hidden behind a screwed cap on each caliper. I replaced the pins on my rear caliper, when I replaced the pads, and they were relatively cheap from Honda.
If the pin that the caliper slides on is sticky, the pads opposite the pistons won't work as well as they should. If you take out the brake pads and one is worn down and the other isn't, you have a sticky caliper pin. Or a sticky piston depending on which brake pad is worn. Anyway, I would take both pins out and if they are not as smooth as a baby's a$$, I would replace them.
On my 1990, the pins are hidden behind a screwed cap on each caliper. I replaced the pins on my rear caliper, when I replaced the pads, and they were relatively cheap from Honda.
#13
12-21-2012, 05:20 AM
Crazy CBR Salvage Guy. RIP
Nice clean up work Sprock; kind of like the school janitor with the bucket of sawdust.
Walshy, no offense, but gather your thoughts before posting so many responses. We are all more than happy to help you out, that's just what us Hurricane owners do.
Cheers and welcome aboard.
(You will get used to us, if you stick around for long enough)
TK
Walshy, no offense, but gather your thoughts before posting so many responses. We are all more than happy to help you out, that's just what us Hurricane owners do.
Cheers and welcome aboard.
(You will get used to us, if you stick around for long enough)
TK
#14
12-21-2012, 10:13 AM
#15
12-21-2012, 04:54 PM
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 14
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Your description is rather vague, more detail of the issue would help.
A bit of history helps, as does details of the bike (make-model and year).
That said, based on your comments...
There are a quite a few possibilities.
Bad/leaky fork seals.
Loose/bad steering head bearings.
Tripple trees out of alignment.
Caliper piston sticking, on the side that "pulls".
Rear caliper piston sticking.
Wheel bearings going out.
Or a combination of, all/some, of the above.
You might consider doing an inspection/maintenance of all of these areas.
Most of the areas have pretty detailed how-to's, in the general mechanics forum.
Try a couple of searches there for the specific tasks.
Hope this helps, Ern
A bit of history helps, as does details of the bike (make-model and year).
That said, based on your comments...
There are a quite a few possibilities.
Bad/leaky fork seals.
Loose/bad steering head bearings.
Tripple trees out of alignment.
Caliper piston sticking, on the side that "pulls".
Rear caliper piston sticking.
Wheel bearings going out.
Or a combination of, all/some, of the above.
You might consider doing an inspection/maintenance of all of these areas.
Most of the areas have pretty detailed how-to's, in the general mechanics forum.
Try a couple of searches there for the specific tasks.
Hope this helps, Ern
#17
12-22-2012, 03:02 AM
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 14
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Brakes
Nice clean up work Sprock; kind of like the school janitor with the bucket of sawdust.
Walshy, no offense, but gather your thoughts before posting so many responses. We are all more than happy to help you out, that's just what us Hurricane owners do.
Cheers and welcome aboard.
(You will get used to us, if you stick around for long enough)
TK
Walshy, no offense, but gather your thoughts before posting so many responses. We are all more than happy to help you out, that's just what us Hurricane owners do.
Cheers and welcome aboard.
(You will get used to us, if you stick around for long enough)
TK
#18
12-22-2012, 03:06 AM
Join Date: Oct 2012
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It has two lines it's bit like having the broom for 20 years but changed the head 15 times and handle 20, The bike has had everything changed over the year so in legal terms (V5) it is a 1987 but is in fact a 1993. Hope that makes sense
#20
12-22-2012, 10:49 AM
It has Linked Brake System (LBS).
A couple of things that could fail with LBS is the proportional valve and the secondary master cylinder. Those two things would effect all the breaks. So...If just one side up front is dragging, it may be caliper piston/s sticking. The front lever only works the front calipers with LBS so that's a good thing that only the front is dragging.
But there's more. If the left front is dragging, it would force the secondary master cylinder up and that in turn would apply rear braking.
With all the work done on the bike you need to recheck the front brake line positions. The line from the lever feeds the two outer pistons on the front calipers. Those lines go to the bottom banjo joint. The center or upper banjo joint is tied to the proportional valve and rear Master cylinder.
If the right front lines were switched, when the lever only was pulled, you would get heavier braking on the left with rear brake also applied. When the rear brake pedal only were pushed, the bike may pull right.
The how to LINK for proper LBS bleeding.
A couple of things that could fail with LBS is the proportional valve and the secondary master cylinder. Those two things would effect all the breaks. So...If just one side up front is dragging, it may be caliper piston/s sticking. The front lever only works the front calipers with LBS so that's a good thing that only the front is dragging.
But there's more. If the left front is dragging, it would force the secondary master cylinder up and that in turn would apply rear braking.
With all the work done on the bike you need to recheck the front brake line positions. The line from the lever feeds the two outer pistons on the front calipers. Those lines go to the bottom banjo joint. The center or upper banjo joint is tied to the proportional valve and rear Master cylinder.
If the right front lines were switched, when the lever only was pulled, you would get heavier braking on the left with rear brake also applied. When the rear brake pedal only were pushed, the bike may pull right.
The how to LINK for proper LBS bleeding.
Last edited by TimBucTwo; 12-22-2012 at 10:58 AM.