Hi everbody first time here and looks great.
I just bought a 1995 cbr1000f about 2 months ago all was fine till other day when i noticed i needed to press the bake brakes twice to get them to work.
I am wondering if it just needs a kit through it our replace whole brake master cylinder.
There is no fluid leaking and once pumped it is fine for a while until pressure leaks back.

The local honda agent said no stock for a month on either so i need so sugestions if that is the cause i have bleed the system after it went soft as buy the instrucions in this forums and it made no difference.
Please help as i am new to hondas CBS brake setup.

 

Welcome to the Forum !

You may still have air in the system (assuming there are no leaks) try bleeding them again.
There is a specific sequence for bleeding the brakes on a 95 model.They have linked brakes, and if your bleed sequence is wrong, the brakes won't work correctly.
Download the manual at
http://members.iinet.net.au/~cbr/Hon...Manual.pdf>
or
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/midlife/i...ice_Manual.pdf
> > Hope it works -
Old brake fluid may also be the cause due to water retention. When was it last changed ?
Only other thing I can think of is a failing master cylinder - replacement kit may be needed.
Probably just needs bleeding using the correct sequence.

 

I second Shadow1's opinions. Bleed the brakes is the first option. And don't trust the shop to do it correctly - my disappointing experience is that mechanics don't always have the proper understanding of the complexity of the Dual Combined Braking System and therefore I had to do it myself to get rid of the accumulated air.

 

Are you refering to the front brakes or the back brakes? I have recently bled my 95 brakes with LBS and it took me a bit of time to work all the air out of the miles of brake line that make up the back brakes. Make sure you have lots of DOT4 fluid (dont mix synthetic with standard it just plain dont mix right) and gravity bleed the brakes until you see lots of clean fluid coming through. By this I mean to crack the rear bleaders on the back brake while toppping up the front and rear master cylinder. Then follow your manual as Shadow had kindly linked you to and bleed following the recommended proceedure. Be patient!

 

you might want to open the master cyclinder and look fior smudge, i know mine the previous owner had never changed the brake fluid. if it got down the brake line it might be a probleme.Just my two cent worth

 

I have bleed brakes a total of 4 times they way the link says.
Each time the brakes are good for a while after then go back to needing 2 pumps to work.
The old fluid was a brownish colour so i assume it has not been changed for a while i will pull apart on weeked and look at.
Do i need any special tools like circlip pliers to disasemble.

 

Thanks for posting the CBR1000F service manual as a pdf. I've decided to change my own brakes on my 94 CBR1000F, and paying 79.00 for one online was crazy. I just joined the CBR Forum, so I am a newbie. Is it difficult to change the brakes? I looked at the manual, and it's pretty straight forward. I think the real problems are bleeding the brakes in the proper sequence. I know it's about time for mine, the fluid is a little dark.

 

Changing the brake pads is a relatively simple thing to do. So long as you don't take loose any of the fittings on the hoses you shouldn't have to worry about bleeding the brake lines. Bleeding is necessary for flushing the fluid and or getting out air that has gotten in there from dissassembly of the hoses or master/caliper cylinders. If you do the bleeding sequence right, you don't get air in the system. When you replace the pads, it's common to press the caliper pistons back into the caliper so there is enough room to put the new thick pads on and get the brake rotor back inbetween them. However, a couple of things to keep in mind. When pressing the pistons back into the caliper, the fluid behind the pistons has to go somewhere. Most likely it's going to go back up the hoses and into the master cylinder reservoir. Make sure you have the lid off of the master cylinder reservoir so you can keep an eye on the level. You don't want it spilling out all over your tank (cover your tank and plastics with aluminum foil to protect them). The other thing to keep in mind is that since you've pressed the pistons all the way back in, it may take several pumps of the brake lever to get enough fluid back behind the pistons to press them outward to engage the pads with the rotors. These are simple things, but just keep them in mind while you do the brakes and everything will be fine.

 

Welcome to the Forum, deucea ! ...and we were all Newbies at some point........
$79 for a service manual ?........Not on this Forum.(Maybe we should start charging newbies.?.....he he)
"Changing the brakes" - do you mean replacing the brake/clutch fluid ?
It depends on which model you have - any CBR1000F up to 1992 is fairly simple, but the 1993 onwards bikes have front and rear linked brakes, which is quite a bit more difficult. You will need to follow the sequence exactly as per the manual.
Use DOT 4 or 5 brake fluid only, and best buy new stuff - brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means it retains water......even standing on a shelf....once that happens, and it goes dark, it's no good. Your bike is a 1994 model ,so do the clutch fluid too....!
Any problems, you know where we are - South Africa, Argentina, Sweden, Norway, England, the US, Canada, Australia.......he he (sorry if I left anyone out, it's only 05.30)
FASTONE - Circlip pliers, plenty of fluid, and patience, and follow what Idodirt says on the linings - I think your bike needs a new master cylinder kit....

 

Shadow1 and idodirt,

Thanks for the instructions and suggestions to do my brakes. Yes, I do have the 94 CBR1000F with the linked braking system. Yes, I probably will have to change the fluid on the clutch too, it's brown. I think your right about the master cylinder rebuild. When I pull on the front brake lever, it feels like the brakes are grabbing...not a smooth braking action I'm used to. If I just use the rear brake lever, I don't get the jerk...it's a lot more linear. And I didn't know about the secondary master cylinder near the front wheel either. I did look at the manual last night, and I did notice the bleeding sequence you have to go through. Thanks guys.