Hi guys,

Well i spent most of today inspecting wiring, switches, rubbing wirey bits & disconnecting connector blocks. Rectumfrier & associated wiring tested out o.k. although it looks original... My bikes done approx. 90,000 km so i hope it's not that old ?.. could be a record !

No shorts found but lots of dry connectors + a bit of green powdery corrosion in one connector behind the dash I spraying bare wires / terminals & every electrickery nook & cranny with liberal quantities of CRC 2-26 then went for a real short ride & happy to report everything is going o.k. (for now).

I think i may have found the culprit....

The neutral switch has real dodgy continuity when in neutral. I'm going to order one monday morning along with it's associated in-line diode wich has a fead linked to starter relay). I'm amazed the neutral lamp worked... the signal is really inconsistant !

My assumptions is this...

The dodgy neutral switch is causing the 10 amp 'indicator' fuse to blow (inconsistantly). The associated in-line diode could be causing the 30 amp main fuse on the starter relay to blow ?.

Let me know what you reacon.. comments welcome, i'm just all out of ideas. If this doesn't work i'll get a mobile auto electrician to have a look at her.

I'll keep ya's posted ... wish me luck !

In the mean time, my fellow commutees get the pleasure of listening to my sv1000 yoshis backfiring for another week .. shure wake's em up in the morning !

 

i still think that it has a short somewhere. moving the harness around has unshorted it for now. i really hope im wrong....

in the meantime, carry extra fuses with you.

 

Same here but i just can't find anything so i'll replace the neutral switch & diode then have another poke around.

A question though........... With my battery fully charged i measure 13.6 volts across the terminals while bike is idling + when i increase revs to 4000 rpm. The other day when the battery was a bit run down from my tinkering i was measuring 14.5 volts when increaseing revs. is the normal ?

Does the rectifier adjust its charge voltage associated with the state of charge in the battery ? Even tho the rectifier tested out o.k. + i've never had problems with an under / over charged battery, i'm still weary of my rectifiers performance after reading about some peoples problems.

I bought a pile of 10 & 30 amp fuses for the job

 

the r/r does regulate the amount of voltage and amps to the battery. 14.5v is on the high side. if it gets to be anymore than that, then worry. you may want to have the battery load tested to make sure its in good enough shape to take the charge.

 

FIXED !!

Thanks 74demon, your post gave me some added determination to go out & have yet another thorough poke around.

The culprit was the black / brown wire in the dash light loom shorting against the steel frame around the mirror area. if any of you guys have yer dash apart, have a good look at this wiring... just in case.

Was hard to see but the wire in question melted the insulation & plastic sheeth approx. the size of a nail head & left a scorch mark up against the steel frame. Will replace the neutral switch as a matter of course.

I'm not shure why the 30amp fuse blew as well as the 10 amp but i guess it's all linked via the diode to the starter relay / main fuse.

Cheers !

 

great news! glad you found it. those problems can really get to you.

 

14.4 volts at 4000rpm on a run down battery is fine, nothing to worry about there. Check your battery voltage after sitting for an hour after being fully charged and it should read 12.75-13 volts, that is what a fully charged wet cell battery should be.

 

Thanks, that's good to know... my battery voltage usually sits between 12.6 - 12.8v.

 

^14.5 running and 12 volt at rest is good. Good to hear that you found the problem.
The two circuits may cross. When you press the start button it drops the lights to give the starter full power. I think that Br/BK wire is a ground. Interesting if a ground wire is shorting going to ground.