From what I understand knock or rattle noises are often caused by the timming chain tensioner. From what Iv'e noticed it's a lot worse at very low rpms, or right before it dies. My last motor had it real bad, and my new motor seems to have the same rattle. If the tensioner is in fact hydraulic, that might explain why it gets worse when the engine is running slower and with lower oil pressure.

 

If the "rattle" is from the bottom of the motorit's unfortunately more likely alternator chain or tensioner. It has a distinctly different sound than cam chain. Follow the ideas put by "collector"to pinpoint the position. If in doubt get someone you know & trust to check it out. Alternator chain is a big job even though it's not real hard. Not what you want to do if it's something else.
Out of curiosity, did the bike cough or kick back when you first tried to start it. If so that will often damage the alternator tensioner.

 

I wouldnt say it coughed or kicked back at all....it stays running fine and idles good...its just the knocking noise.

collector...when you say isolate the leads do you just mean turn the engine over without the plugs in...because when that is done I do not have any noises....

I am still trying to borrow something so i can record the sound and post it so you guys can hear what I hear....I am going to try and borrow a recorder today so hopefully I can post something tonight along with some pictures of where I pinpointed the sound to so it might be easier to diagnose

 

Yes you done the right thing with the ht leads. Worse case, faulty ht lead, coil or plug.This might be valve lash.First check the valve clearances. When these are correct, try again. Also check thatthe cam timing marks correspond with tdc at the crank. Do you have access to a product called redex fuel system cleaner. How long have the carbs that you are using been off?

As for recording the sound, try using your mobile phone and down load to your com and upload to the forum. Goo luck

[IMG]local://upfiles/10939/DB60E12E37334ACAA208D1851786614C.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/10939/0A5966A1EA394EBA82A2A61CC3AF5E11.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/10939/2A98F37F7DF34E9E9EC5C242CC405458.jpg[/IMG]

 

good call on the cell phone....I completly forgot I could record with it....I will be doing that tonight...as for the redex I have never heard of it...we have some similar products over here though...the carbs that are currently on it were off for approx. 6 months and the last time they were actually run on the road was over a year ago...I think I will pull the cover off this weekend and check the valves as I have never adjusted them and I dont know if the previous owner did...thanks again and I will post that video tonight

 

Ok here we go...
http://www.mediafire.com/?f8rdztwfrnv

http://www.mediafire.com/?2gm7txm2mho

The first clip is from a cold start...its about 40 degrees farenheit here right now....( the engine raced a little due to a sticky throttle)...the second clip is after running for about 10 min....useing the screwdriver method it sound like the source is actually the topmost part of the engine (amazing how sound travels)...let me know what you think.....

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee298/trdberd

also here is a link to some photos of what the bike looks like right now and some of the parts for it....I do have one ? though...if you take a look at picture 2 and 5 they are of the left side of the carbs...the carbs on the bike have little tubes from the float bowl that connect to the neck of the intake...but the two sets of spare carbs only have screws...does anyone know what this is for and why its there...thanks again

 

Ok, great pics and listened to the recording that you made. now it can be either of the following. 1 valve hitting the piston, incorrect valve adjustment, faulty, out of sync carb or incorrect fuel air mixture. Also check compression of cylinders. Check valves cleances.

From the list above work backwards.

Using the screwdriver, try and locate which cylinder is at fault. Do this with the tank off and with a small supply of fuel and from the carb side of the cylinders, and then from the exhaust port to confirm. Tick over will locate the noisey one.

Those pipes that you mentioned are mods that someone has done, and the only conclusion that I can come up with is to get more fuel into the carbs, which means that this bike has been raced at some point.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

Ok...im going to check those valves this weekend...thanks

what do you reccomend i do with those tubes should I leave them or take them off??? could they affect the way it runs...by putting too much fuel in...

 

What the problem with the spare carbs?

I wonder if the pipes are on due to a faulty pump. When you raise the tank off let us know where the pipes are coming from, they may come from the petcock area and be a direct feed, and I notice that you have a different fuel pump to myself. Check pic as these pumps are on the bike in a case.

[IMG]local://upfiles/10939/8978DEE4D19F4DA28E72C9D28B0E7423.jpg[/IMG]

 

the tubes actually go right to the air box....each carb has one tube that runs to its corresponding neck on the air boxand there is an adjustment screw where it connects to the air box to controll flow...ill take some pictures of it and post them up so you can see...