ops I posted to wrong page. I will reprint here and hope my other post will be deleted.



Well.. Long story short, back in April I asked for help and information was gladly passed on to me as to what to do. Well, The answer I ended up finding was some off beaten tarmac and half my face being ripped off due to a rear end collision where the car driver left me for dead. 30 Stiches to my head and my left ear being reattached by some plastic surgeon in Cambridge. Now I look like hitch from the film Hitch. And NO the driver did not stop and fleed the scene and I was found by a passer by driving a lorry. The person will never be found. >.<

More over, Since then, 4 months later on I decided to was time I got back on a bike again, which has now come to pass and Guess what I bought..

You guessed it, Another CBR1000F-M, this version is much newer and yes it comes with minor faults. ughh.

So far the story now unfold and a new CCT is required but seeing most CBR rattle from cold this evens out when I get it wamed up. However.......

Me, thinking that most CBR's are the same, I am sadly mistaken. It turns out that none of the serviceable fluids were changed, so done and dusted on that subject. BUT. What is it with Honda now using from 1987-89 regular Fork Oil, but now from 1990- to when ever they discontinued, to change that setup and convert from fork oil to ATF3000 TITAN transmission oil........

I am so dam confused about what to use for fork oils.... Shall I go by recommendation of ATF3000 or just plain regular fork oil 10 or 15w.. Can anyone explain why they changed this and was it for the better.? Further more, These dam stanchions are a pig!!! to separate. Most regular people do a half bake job and suck out the oil but this one needs to be removed and unscrewed from the bottom then released from the top. Just to get the old fluids out. Does anyone have a better idea in changing the oil that does not involve dismantling the front end. I guess i'm going to be slapped for asking those questions, cause if your going to do a job, do it right the first time....

I just want to avoid buying the front end pinch hook system to lift this heavy beast. As some plonker has done away with the centre stand. CRY!!!!

 

Firstly, I am glad you are now ok and the healing is well under way! It sounded painful.

Now for me, I'd find a centre stand and bolt it on and completely dismantle the forks and clean them. And replace the fluids with fork oil of the recommended viscosity.

But that's me!

Cheers, SB

 

glad you are on the mend now.
as s.b said it is best to get the front off the ground and dismantle the forks, but at least take the forks off,caps out,invert and drain the old oil pumping the forks in and out,you can get rubber friendly degreaser and clean them out with that,and leave them upside down for a while to drain, as far as fork oil, i think atf has a weight of 7.5, fork oil has a number of weights depending on how you want your forks to feel, i rebuilt my cane forks with fork oil as it comes in smaller containers and can be cheaper,

 

Well I did as you both told me and took about 4 hours in total to do. Remove wheel, undo pinch bolt at the bottom, remove stanchions whilst undoing the top bolt.

Upside down remove bottom bolt, turn upright way in a bucket, remove top bolt, remove entire inner gearings and viola. OUT pops grey oil on the left and out pops brown oil on the right. all about 400ml in both.

Replace all oil in reverse order but filling up upside stanchions is a new one on me.

Now I can honestly say the steering is lighter. with a higher ride height. It feels much stronger in the compression.

So, now I need to drop the front fork about 1.5 inches as I have about 2.5 inches spare under full compression. Then it should handle like my old Cane which im getting more happy about. WOW this was a pig of a job but all the same easy enough.

If your interested I used ATF4000 equivilant as no shops had ATF3000. go go Automatic transmission fluids... >.>;;;;

 

I don't think Honda have ever used ATF fluid as an oem spec. Lots of us use ATF 300 as an alternative to fork oil. Most I think use 10wt as this is the closest to standard fork oil. The ATF you have filled with is a bit thicker so your front suspension will probably be a little firmer - almost like putting an extra 10Ml in each fork to stiffen them up.
I can't see it being a problem, except as you have mentioned the ride height is a bit higher than before.
I'd ride it a bit and see how it settles down before moving anything around...............
FWIW
Glad you're back on 2 wheels AND a 1000F.

 

yeah 10wt or 15wt regular fork oil - imo 10 is good tho for cold damp climates