APE CCT - what model fits mine?
#1
APE CCT - what model fits mine?
Hi,
Like many others, I too have a rattle from my CCT on my CBR 1000 F '91. She has 36.000 miles on the clock. I want to get an APE CCT, but they don't make it for the CBR 1000 F. Does anyone know what models are compatible with the CBR 1000 F when it comes to the CCT?
Just another question. My gas mileage is only 28 MPG and I am not that aggressive a driver. My air filter definitely needs a replacement and I'm going to clean my carburators soon - the idle is a little unstable. Would this combined with a new manual CCT improve my gas mileage?
Thanks
Lasse
Like many others, I too have a rattle from my CCT on my CBR 1000 F '91. She has 36.000 miles on the clock. I want to get an APE CCT, but they don't make it for the CBR 1000 F. Does anyone know what models are compatible with the CBR 1000 F when it comes to the CCT?
Just another question. My gas mileage is only 28 MPG and I am not that aggressive a driver. My air filter definitely needs a replacement and I'm going to clean my carburators soon - the idle is a little unstable. Would this combined with a new manual CCT improve my gas mileage?
Thanks
Lasse
#2
G'day. Sorry can't help with the CCT question but your gas mileage is very poor. You'd get that kind of mpg if you were thrashing around everywhere. Have you had the bike long and has the mpg got worse or is it relatively new to you?
Definately get the new filter in as soon as you can and after you've cleaned your carbies get them balanced and adjusted correctly (or do it yourself if you've got the gear). I can't see the new CCT making much difference to mpg. In order to affect this it would have to be seriously loose and be throwing the valve timing out. I'd have thought it would be doing more than just rattle if this was the case.
Take it easy.
Definately get the new filter in as soon as you can and after you've cleaned your carbies get them balanced and adjusted correctly (or do it yourself if you've got the gear). I can't see the new CCT making much difference to mpg. In order to affect this it would have to be seriously loose and be throwing the valve timing out. I'd have thought it would be doing more than just rattle if this was the case.
Take it easy.
#3
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#6
Try the new filter first, then do a tankfull with a gentle throttle hand 5-6k through the gears and highway cruising 4- 4 1/2k. Also, have you looked at the plugs? Most dealers do the minimum to a bike, just pretty it up for the lot and they won't even change the plugs and oil. Might be worth doing too. Let us know how you go.
#7
Thanks, Dave. I'll try to have it fixed under the warranty.
And yes, I have noticed my throttle hand getting heavier after I've gotten to know the old girl, but I have also been driving a full tank the way you describe and there is very little difference in MPG.
I have good faith in the dealer though, he's a local with a good reputation and he's been very helpful so far. Perhaps danish dealerships are more trustworthy .
I just ordered a new K&N air filter here: http://www.d2moto.com/ProductDetails...ode=KN-HA-1087
If you put in the coupon code KNOFF30, you'll get 30 % discount - I ended up paying $ 33,56
I'll try to change the plugs as well. Will return soon - have a nice weekend!
And yes, I have noticed my throttle hand getting heavier after I've gotten to know the old girl, but I have also been driving a full tank the way you describe and there is very little difference in MPG.
I have good faith in the dealer though, he's a local with a good reputation and he's been very helpful so far. Perhaps danish dealerships are more trustworthy .
I just ordered a new K&N air filter here: http://www.d2moto.com/ProductDetails...ode=KN-HA-1087
If you put in the coupon code KNOFF30, you'll get 30 % discount - I ended up paying $ 33,56
I'll try to change the plugs as well. Will return soon - have a nice weekend!
#8
28 MPG is not at all normal Lasse.
If I do a whole tank at speeds of 100 MPH (160 KPH) I would still get better than 38 MPG.
Normal riding will give in excess of 45 MPG and I have got as good as 50 MPG taking it really easy on a tank. That was 220 miles before going onto reserve.
Have you checked that your choke is adjusted correctly? Having it stick on would make a big difference to consumption but it may not be obvious from the way it rides.
Lift the tank, operate the choke and you can see where the cable attaches to the carbs. When the choke is in the off position (i.e. with the handlebar lever as far forwards as it will go) the lever in the carbs should be fully to the left. If this isn't happening then make sure everything is oiled properly and adjust the cable if necessary.
The return springs can go weak. Replace it if that's the case. Better still get your dealer to do it under the warranty. Might as well get the most out of it while it's still under cover.
Carry out the other checks that everyone has already mentioned too. It's basic stuff and will help you to get to know her a lot better.
One more thing, make sure you've got a tool kit with the bike. The OEM kit is great and sits in the compartment behind the battery. It could save you a lot of hassle if you break down in the middle of nowhere (though that's never going to be very far away from civilisation in Denmark is it? He he...). It also has the best plug spanner that money can buy for these bikes.
Good luck.
If I do a whole tank at speeds of 100 MPH (160 KPH) I would still get better than 38 MPG.
Normal riding will give in excess of 45 MPG and I have got as good as 50 MPG taking it really easy on a tank. That was 220 miles before going onto reserve.
Have you checked that your choke is adjusted correctly? Having it stick on would make a big difference to consumption but it may not be obvious from the way it rides.
Lift the tank, operate the choke and you can see where the cable attaches to the carbs. When the choke is in the off position (i.e. with the handlebar lever as far forwards as it will go) the lever in the carbs should be fully to the left. If this isn't happening then make sure everything is oiled properly and adjust the cable if necessary.
The return springs can go weak. Replace it if that's the case. Better still get your dealer to do it under the warranty. Might as well get the most out of it while it's still under cover.
Carry out the other checks that everyone has already mentioned too. It's basic stuff and will help you to get to know her a lot better.
One more thing, make sure you've got a tool kit with the bike. The OEM kit is great and sits in the compartment behind the battery. It could save you a lot of hassle if you break down in the middle of nowhere (though that's never going to be very far away from civilisation in Denmark is it? He he...). It also has the best plug spanner that money can buy for these bikes.
Good luck.
#9
I do agree with you HenryM , if i ride all day on motorways the mileage is quite good(130miles ish then reserve) but if my day is spent doing local runs( lots of town work) with the odd national speed limit 25mpg is quite normal on my old (21yrs ) cbr .I have had just under 90miles and had to hit reserve???......i think it`s more of how heavy your wrist is , on some days mine way`s tonnes ;-) just a guess is lasse running original pipes etc because the carbs may just need re jetting to suite??
#10
I don't think I've ever gotten less than 100miles on a tank. I've never burned a whole tank in the city, tho.
Just riding to work every day with a pretty heavy wrist, I average between 30-36mpg.
On the highway, I've seen 47mpg riding with stock gearing and Harley riders doing 50mph....lol..
That's the best I've ever gotten.
Just riding to work every day with a pretty heavy wrist, I average between 30-36mpg.
On the highway, I've seen 47mpg riding with stock gearing and Harley riders doing 50mph....lol..
That's the best I've ever gotten.