Had a Search and couldnt find anything on this topic, but has anyone thought about, or already fitted better calipers onto their F? Is there any other options other than the vague Nissin ones that are on as standard.

 

I use EBC HH Sintered pads on the front, kevlar on the rear. FA189 is the EBC reference Nr.

They seem to work fine to me. Remember that the more aggressive the pads, the quicker your disks will vanish!

 

Hav'nt heard of anyone changing their calapers but most either chane the discs and pads for ebc, or uprate the brake lines for reinforced pipes.



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Hi, I'm working on exactly the same issue! I really don't like the sliding calipers on my FL. EBC HH pads do improve the power of the brakes, but don't do anything to help the poor feel. As far as I'm aware, there aren't any 4 pots that will simply bolt straight on. So I got a set off a CBR600 FY and some guys at work are designing brackets in CAD that I can then get made up. Only trouble is that the load path looks like it will go through a corner in the bracket - not good for strength. Anyway, I'll see what they're like when they are made. The other option I'm considering is to fit the forks off the 600 too - with the benefit of adjustability. But the springs will probably be too soft for the 1000s weight, so I'll need to get some stronger springs. And I'm not sure if my 1000 wheel and spacers will fit the 600 forks. Like I said, it isn't simple! But I'll let you know how I get on if you're interested.

 

Yeah m8, that would be great. I have the FL. Other than the poor feel, I have stripped them 3x now, put new seals in and they are binding still. I remember Nissin calipers on my very first bike, and had a nightmare with them. I was hoping for a newer caliper to have the same mounts and such but nothing is ever easy

 

firstly i am not the puritanical person i am about to come across as.

it seems to me that some bikes present a ready route to upgrades of various kinds. for instance i know it is possible to fit yammy r6 (or is it r1) calipers to a yammy fj1200. as far as i can see due to the intricacies of linked braking and various other bollocks it is tricky to do anything to these brakes apart from make sure everything is as it should be and fit grippy pads if you want to stop in a hurry. polish the buggers. make em gleam.

once again, may i ...........

 

You can use the forks on calpiers of a CB1300.

I find the brakes on this bike arent too bad considering its hauling up a wet weight of 270kg.

Sintered pads are actually overkill IMHO unless you are using it on a track or in really twisty roads where you are constantly using high pressure on the brakes. Organic fade quicker, but wear out the rotors less and have better feel.

Most people with CBR's that I have seen have discs that are either close to their thickness limit, have ridges on them or ****loads of previous brakepad buildup.

In terms of cost here are the cheapest ways to get brake performance.

1. Learn proper Brake technique
You'd be amazed how many people stab at the brakes etc. If you ride at 150mph then you should practice emergency braking at 150mph so then when you need to do it you feel confident.

2. Get brake pads suited for your riding style.
A lot of people buy the very lates rock hard metal sintered pads. Fine if you are on the track. But they need to get up to temp and stay there to work effectively. They also wear out the discs. If you aren't Rossi then stick with organic street rated pads.

3. Make sure front spring isnt too hard or soft.
A front suspension with a too hard or too soft spring will make your braking worse.

4. Get discs bead blasted to remove residue
Idealy every time you change pads you should do this. Even though it isnt always visible there is a buildup on most discs.

5. Get discs skimmed (only if it doesn't go under the limit)
This is good for removing ridges etc that get onto the discs after years of use. Makes it hard for the pads to bite properly. But dont go under the thickness limit or the disc will warp or even worse break.

6. Get braided Lines
Remeber rubber lines only have a life span of 5 years! Yes you have to get custom made, but its worth it and should last a long time.

5. Get new full floating discs.
New discs arent that expensive. Plenty of places can make em. Or get ones of a wrecked new bike.

 

Cheers for the help guys, as always right on the ball. I will look at better pads, and braided hoses.

 

BTW EBC Discs are 25% off at bikebandit.com atm too.

I wonder if I can talk the other half into it....

 

Here in the States, your techniacally supposed to replace your rubber lines every 2 years!

I went 20 years on my Sabre before I replaced the lines.