Anyone got a copy of Stus instructions on Alternator Damper removal that they can share? Not available online anymore that I can see. Much appreciated!

 

Bump

 

I don't have a copy, but I've rebuilt my engine recently. Having been in there, I personally wouldn't attempt changing it out without splitting the crankcase. If I absolutely *had* to I would put the engine on a stand, drop the oilpan, secure the alternator chain tensioner, and gingerly remove the alternator shaft, working with the engine upside down so that gravity doesn't drop the spacers. For bonus points, mark the shaft with a paint marker so that the internal oil holes retain alignment (I don't think it's necessary though)

With luck (and impossibly small fingers) you might be able to pull the alternator shaft. Installation is the reverse, but with an extra layer of difficulty as you now have to get the chain back on with very poor access

If you drop the oilpan, you should be able to get a lay of the land. The alternator chain tensioner is (technically) accessible, so make sure you jam some welding wire into the tensioner piston or else it'll fly apart once you pull the shaft out. You're definitely splitting the crank if that happens. The tensioner release is a small metal tab on the body of the tensioner, and you'll want to back it out to get enough wiggle room to remove the shaft

Here's a couple pics I've got from the rebuild. Good luck

 

Thanks for that. I relly DON"T want to drop the pan or split the cases. (time and motivation!) Really busy for the next week or so, so will contemplate what to do.
Judging by your damper yours must be a MK1?

 

From another thread:
"You can do this job with engine in frame-
take off carbs/ airbox/ starter, undo alternator nut, remove alternator shaft.
Hook piece of wire round chain to stop it dropping....Dont bother lieing the bike down (!!!???)
Theres a tang off the alt chain tensioner in the way; bend it down out the way.
The damper should now eventually come out... this is fiddly! have patience!
Have cup of tea and ***.
The tensioner will (should have) automatically have tensioned the chain... If you look at it down the alternator aperture, youll see a spring loaded plunger.. the ratchet on this needs to be disengaged... have second ***.
I got a 6" length of bicycle spoke, and found that if bent to the correct shape, it could enter the engine via the starter motor hole, and go down to where the teeth on the ratchet are. next to these teeth, you can push the spoke thro a hole, at the same time disengaging the ratchet. At this point leave the spoke in situ.
Damper replaced , chain put over it, tang bent back, safety wire round chain removed. Alt shaft & alternator replaced.
Now the magic bit!! the bicycle spoke can be withdrawn thro the starter hole, allowing the tensioner to do its job again. Reassemble everything else.
Have crate of Newky Brown.
This is the result of a very long day yesterday, when I tried to do the job as advised, and found that there was no way to do it, if the tensioner was working!!! Maybe some cbr1000s dont have this tensioner, but I have my doubts!
Its not a difficult job but it is a bit fiddly. Take your time, dont start hitting things with hammers, and itll be ok."

I've done it and I'm no mechanic! I did refer to Stu's page, though. It must be somewhere on an internet archive. Good luck.

Cheers,

Dennis

 

Yup mine is an 87. Aside from the CCT, I don't think they made any changes to the engine internals over the Hurricane's run

 

Did the job yesterday and it took most of the day. Took part out of my wreck and it worked thankfully. Part is expensive here.

 

Nice job. Good to know that the procedure works