What do you think?

More info can be found on the MotoWizard page, but you can either buy a newly resurfaced rotor, or send in your rotor for machining.

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Looks sharp. I like it. Did you notice a change in breaking with it all? Thats my main concern.

 

Those definately look sweet bro. I'm interested in the braking ability as well... what's the deal?

 

Less mating surface with pads, less support on rotor... I dunno bout that [&o]

 

Capone, Big Kahuna had some of the same conerns originally. This is a copy of what I sent to him. He has since posted this info in another forum so I figured I would post it here for you guys.

Warping can be an issue if they are not cut properly. Just like a piece of wood the metal has a grain. When the rotor reaches a temperature that overstressed the metal it will spring with the grain. This is warping. The biggest factor is heat.

You can warp a stock rotor if you don't change the pads at regular intervals. When braking the heat generated by the rotor is transfered to the pads until the pads are saturated with heat. The heat is wicked away by the pad mounting surface..... If you haven't noticed its copper.... and a lot of it. The copper plates on the back of the brake pads are designed to pull the heat away.

When the pads and the copper sub plates are completely saturated with heat they will radiate heat back into the rotor. This is where rotor design is a factor. First the thicker the rotor the more heat will take before it can potentially warp. This is why when we resurface we must have a minimum of 4mm of working surface when finished or you can run the risk of warping and why Galfer uses 5mm thick material to make those skinny little rotors. Second friction is the driving force of the heat. As surface area increases so does friction. By removing part of the rotor surface friction is greatly reduced. Some would say so is stopping response time. But so far this is unproven. Just look at some of the AMA guys using Galfer rotors when racing. It is possible to remove too much material and this will create hot spots that will over stress a rotor as it is cycled and can cause it to warp or even crack. This is why our designs are uniform in nature to help distribute the heat evenly through the rotor.

I have machined over 700 rotors to date and not one has warped. I do get rotors from customers that have stress fractures around all of the drilled holes. These rotor I won't touch. After machining these rotors can become very unstable. These stress fractures are caused from people not changing the brake bads until there is 1/8 of an inch of pad or less left on them. This brings me back to how the pads work. With very little pad thickness the heat generated by the rotor moves quickly through the pad and the copper plate and is radiated into the rotor surface much more quickly than with a thicker brake pad.

Long story short. Thin pads can damage even a stock rotor.

Our rotors are on average .8 to 1.2 lbs lighter than stock. This reduces rotational mass. They also run cooler and from our testing stop in a shorter distance without locking up the rear end. The only drawback so far is that they appear to use the rear pads about 15% faster than a stock rotor. The slots under pressure and heat act like a cutting surface that can shave the pads. This is actually a good thing because the pads will not glaze over. Glazed pads reflect a fraction of the heat that reduces stopping ability. Glazed pads can be sanded or if you cycle the brakes rapidly the glazing can be removed.

The front rotor we are making will at first be edge cut only. I will not be messing with designs in the stock rotors. 75 to 80% of you stopping power is with these front rotors. the custom designs will be cut into new front rotors but that will be later this summer.Mike
CTSmoto
http://cts.theallureimage.com/

 

Some skepticism is a good thing. Seems reasonable that less material = less stopping power. This isn't exactly true. While I don't agree 100% with CTSmoto's heat transfer theory I do agree with a lot of it.

Most people think that steel brake lines and HH pads and the works will make the bike stop faster. This is not exactly how brakes work. Any brake that will lock the wheel down has created the maximum stopping force. To stop in less distance you'd need more friction along the tire/pavement surface -- not bigger pads or rotors. The fancy brake lines and expensive pads do however increase feel, feedback and response of the brakes so you're less likely to overbrake.

The rotors with the designs cut in have less rotor mass to absorb heat but they also have a lot more surface area to dissipate heat -- in theory if they are cut properly the heat issue should be a wash. It's a lot less unsprung weight plus the cool factor.

 

I largely agree w/Chainstretcher; the most powerful thing on your sportbike are the breaks - not the motor. Think about it: the time to go from 0-100 vs the time to go from 100-0. The latter is always shorter.

You can't escape physics. Energy is not lost, it's only transfered to another medium; in the case of the brakes it's turned into heat... lots of it! Theoretically, the cut discs should radiate that heat to the surrounding enviroment (air) more quickly. The trade off is in lesser surface area. Ought to be a wash. But the real bonus, is the lack of weight on a spung item - the wheel, thus allowing better transitions from side-side.

Cheers

 

Hey, for more info, check out my review:

http://streetbikereview.com/sbr_revi...to_rotor.shtml

I actually prefer the non-locking side effect of the custom cut rotors. I switch over to braided lines a while ago, and it was pretty easy to lock up the rear. With these rotors, it's nearly impossible to lock the rear, without losing the stopping power when you do need it.