I have a 94 F2 and it has been killing batteries. My r/r was bad. I bought a suzuki 06-07 gsxr 600-750 r/r off ebay for $29. I thought it was the one with only 5 wires. It has 7 wires. I hooked it up anyways. It just has an extra set of pos & neg wires. I taped off a set. Tested it at idle and I got 12.9v. The voltagegoes up just past idle to 5000rpms. The voltage went no higher than about 14.5 and at 5k it started to actually go down to 14. Revving the bike up to anything past 5k the voltage still hung back around 14v. My honda r/r was 12.3volts at the battery, engine off. Engine on it was 12.5volts. volts at 5k-6k only 12.3 or less. I could never get it to reach 13volts at any rpm. Someone on another forum did this also and has had no issues. Tomorrow I will ride it longer and test again.
I have a 94 F2 and it has been killing batteries. My r/r was bad. I bought a suzuki 06-07 gsxr 600-750 r/r off ebay for $29. I thought it was the one with only 5 wires. It has 7 wires. I hooked it up anyways. It just has an extra set of pos & neg wires. I taped off a set. Tested it at idle and I got 12.9v. The voltagegoes up just past idle to 5000rpms. The voltage went no higher than about 14.5 and at 5k it started to actually go down to 14. Revving the bike up to anything past 5k the voltage still hung back around 14v. My honda r/r was 12.3volts at the battery, engine off. Engine on it was 12.5volts. volts at 5k-6k only 12.3 or less. I could never get it to reach 13volts at any rpm. Someone on another forum did this also and has had no issues. Tomorrow I will ride it longer and test again.
What was the bike doing before you changed it? would it ride and then die?
The 1st problem I noticed was the 1st new battery would not charge fully when it was only 2 weeks old. My charger said it had an internal fault. I put another new battery in and after a week it would be dead when I went to leave work. I charged it again and it had the same fault as the first one. Then I checked the voltage at the batt engine on and engine off. Is it normal that the rectifier would get so hot that it would burn my finger if I touched it? While riding at slower speeds the bike would act like it was running out of gas. less than a month earlier I had removed the carbs and cleaned them and installed an inline filter.
Just a couple of hints to help with the R/R burnout problem. 1. Make sure the area where the mounting plate and frame come doesnt have any paint on it and use a high temp heat sink grease between them. 2. The ground wire on the CBRs is a pretty small gauge wire with a lot heavier gauge wire which will cause less resistance. The R/R sends extra voltage to ground, which creates heat. The less the resistance, the less heat it will create. 3. If you have an aftermarket R/R with cooling fins, go to Radio Shack and get a small CPU fan and attach it to the top of the R/R so it is blowing air onto it.
I have done all three of the things listed above and after riding for a few hours the R/R is still cool enough to touch.
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Never ride faster than you guardian angel can fly....
Heyo.. didn't want to clutter the page by creating a new thread so hopefully someone helps me in here..
Bike has been idling and starting funny lately and today couldn't get it to turn over...
so I jumped it with my wifes car and it would only run if I held down the throttle a little...
so I make it back home.. (maybe a mile..?)... read up and find out it might be my reg/rectifier.. pull the plug and yep... one pin in the connector is fried..
I already have a GSXR 1000 replacement on order so thats taken care of... my question is.. I heard that running it with the bad rectifier can fry my ECU and everything else because it can't regulate the voltage spikes... makes sense given the name of the piece...
How would I know if I did any electrical damage to the bike besides just cooking the rectifier..? I'm guessing if my ECU was fried nothing would happen if I try to start it right..? How do I check the stator to see if thats still ok..?
If there was some electrical damage. . .then something electrical would be damaged. These bikes are not at all complicated. If something is broken, you'll know. As for testing the stator, look at the PDF in the first post in this thread. Also, failing electrical generators on this bike (battery, stator) rarely spike; they droop.
__________________ 2nd Place for August 2009 Ride of the Month! '96 CBR600 F3 Dynojet Stage 2 Jetkit Yoshimura RS-3 Full Race Exhaust -1/+2 Vortex/Supersprox Sprocket Swap w/ EK Gold Chain Woodcraft Rearsets w/ Brake Light Mod '07 Yamaha R6 Regulator/Rectifier Xenon HID Headlight Kit Device Charging USB Port (Homebrew!) Red Bull Dampener ^_^ StreetGlow Body LED kit Custom Fender Elimination with Flushmount Signals TapeWorks Reflective Rim Pinstriping
thats a nice load off my mind... I'll update when the new rectifier gets in and see if that works...
hey.. another quick question.. will I have to keep checking and maybe replacing the rectifier at regular intervals..? or is switching to the gixxer model more a permanent fix..?
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RE: Regulator rectifier (R/R) problem solved
sweetness!!
