HOW TO: Clutch Replacement (PICTURE INTENSE) 56K, Don't even try.
#43
#45
#46
Nice "How-to" thread!
I stumbled across this thread having just done the clutch on my 94 CB1000, which is apparently identical in the clutch department. While the OP did a spectacular job of writing this up, I have a couple of things to add.
My clutch was slipping when I got on it in 4th or 5th gear and the revs were above 5000. I think both the CBR and the CB develop max torque in the same rev neighborhood and the amount is about the same, as well, but don't quote me on that. At any rate the clutch seemed to hold pretty well in lower gears irrespective of throttle abuse. I did notice that engagement happened when the lever was pretty far out, say 85% or more.
I got a set of EBC friction discs and springs and took a chance when I removed the clutch cover with the bike on the side stand. I was very pleased to see that no oil leaked out with the bike in this position. I don't like to pry covers off if I can help it and, since this one doesn't have any locating dowels, I just gave it a solid rap with a plastic dead-blow hammer (I think about 12 oz.) One good tap on the top broke it loose and it came off with the gasket apparently intact. As others have noted, scraping the old gasket off is tedious at best, so I figured I'd wait to see if the old one leaked upon re-use before I stripped it off.
This bike has a bit over 40K miles on it and I know the last owner did a lot of 2-up riding, so I wasn't surprised it needed a new clutch, but I wasn't sure if it would need new steels. When I removed them, there were heat marks on the four in the middle of the stack, but after placing them on a scrap of granite slab, I found that they were still quite flat. Note that a modern glass window pane will do the same job, but there aren't any windows in my shed. Anyhow, I scrubbed both sides of all the steels with very coarse scotchbrite until all the burn marks and discoloration were gone. This was the most time-consuming and arduous part of the whole operation, but even the steels that don't have heat discoloration will have a kind of a glaze on them, so it's best to go at all of them.
When done with the scrubbing and ready to re-install everything, make sure all your parts are squeaky clean. After all the clutch shares its' environment with the crankcase and transmission so the less extraneous dirt you put in there, the better.
Anyhow, this thread has enduring value. Thanks to the OP for doing it!
My clutch was slipping when I got on it in 4th or 5th gear and the revs were above 5000. I think both the CBR and the CB develop max torque in the same rev neighborhood and the amount is about the same, as well, but don't quote me on that. At any rate the clutch seemed to hold pretty well in lower gears irrespective of throttle abuse. I did notice that engagement happened when the lever was pretty far out, say 85% or more.
I got a set of EBC friction discs and springs and took a chance when I removed the clutch cover with the bike on the side stand. I was very pleased to see that no oil leaked out with the bike in this position. I don't like to pry covers off if I can help it and, since this one doesn't have any locating dowels, I just gave it a solid rap with a plastic dead-blow hammer (I think about 12 oz.) One good tap on the top broke it loose and it came off with the gasket apparently intact. As others have noted, scraping the old gasket off is tedious at best, so I figured I'd wait to see if the old one leaked upon re-use before I stripped it off.
This bike has a bit over 40K miles on it and I know the last owner did a lot of 2-up riding, so I wasn't surprised it needed a new clutch, but I wasn't sure if it would need new steels. When I removed them, there were heat marks on the four in the middle of the stack, but after placing them on a scrap of granite slab, I found that they were still quite flat. Note that a modern glass window pane will do the same job, but there aren't any windows in my shed. Anyhow, I scrubbed both sides of all the steels with very coarse scotchbrite until all the burn marks and discoloration were gone. This was the most time-consuming and arduous part of the whole operation, but even the steels that don't have heat discoloration will have a kind of a glaze on them, so it's best to go at all of them.
When done with the scrubbing and ready to re-install everything, make sure all your parts are squeaky clean. After all the clutch shares its' environment with the crankcase and transmission so the less extraneous dirt you put in there, the better.
Anyhow, this thread has enduring value. Thanks to the OP for doing it!
#48
#49
You guys got me concerned for a couple of minutes. Made me check the first page to make sure Imageshack didn't screw up.
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malbojah
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06-22-2009 01:38 PM