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  #21  
Old 04-27-2011, 07:46 PM
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Now you need to slot the tensioner to allow the bolt to protrude, will also have make a piece to fill in the opening at the top of the tensioner. Disregard the xtra hole at top of tensioner in this photo. I used 12 ga. steel.
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  #22  
Old 04-27-2011, 07:57 PM
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Now install the arm, don't forget the pivot bushing/spacer. Before installing the filler piece, fill the tensioner with oil and bleed it of all all air by stroking the arm.
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  #23  
Old 04-27-2011, 08:24 PM
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Time to install the top filler piece, as I said before it's a good idea to secure it and the arm pivot pin by a form of welding. Photo of the final product (Not my best work, but you get the idea).
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  #24  
Old 04-27-2011, 08:50 PM
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Install as usual,lightly tighten the bottom nut, spin the engine over,then retighten. The idea is to not add much more tension than the OEM spring does, you are just backing up the hydraulic portion of the tensioner. Use Locktite before lowering the upper nut, using it as a locknut. Use a piece of wire (safety wire) to secure the end of bolt to the upper chain guide in case of the bolt failing. A reajustment after 2-300 mi. might be needed. As stated before this mod has been tested for less than 4,000 mi.. If anyone has a failure after this mileage, PLEASE report.
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  #25  
Old 04-28-2011, 08:30 AM
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Mate,
that's a nice neat idea.
Thanks for the write up. I may just have to try that with one of my old tensioners.
Just a thought but did the oil plate fit over the tensioner ok after the mods. You know the thing I mean? It captures oil and funnels it into the oil cup.

Anyway, great work mate. I'd like to hear how it lasts in the long term. Don't forget to update after a few more miles.
You may just have cracked the old problem.
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  #26  
Old 04-29-2011, 09:16 PM
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Henry, there is no installation issues. The oil deflector/guide installs as usual. My only concern is the possibility of stress causing cracks forming from the pivot hole to the newly ground away area. Those with higher skills than mine may consider adding bracing to that area, after installing the bolt. Only time will tell if that will be neccessary. For those in the No. hemisphere, enjoy the summer and ride safe.
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  #27  
Old 07-18-2011, 05:08 PM
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Developed a muted rattle at approx 3800 mi., between 15-2500 rpm. Found some play in adj. bolt, tightened 1/8th turn until snug and noise is gone. Hope that I will not have to readjust that often in future. Forgot to mention that you will want to also weld the washer to the bottom nut before assembly, and you have to bend a 10mm wrench in order to adj./hold bottom nut. Photo of installed tensioner is not that good, but I included it anyway. Purchased and installed low mileage carbs from a fellow member this spring, made a jet needle clip position adjustment while I was "in there" and now the old girl runs real nice.
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  #28  
Old 03-31-2012, 09:45 AM
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Hi. Am suffering from the dreaded camchain rattle (again) and am at the crossroads of 'do I replace the CCT (again) or modify it'?? Any further updates regarding the longevity/success of this modification please. Thanks
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  #29  
Old 04-04-2012, 02:40 PM
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Welcome, Tony. Sorry but I have to admit to putting on only 2k mi since last report (stupid job). Still have no noise issues, If you are keeping the bike I would try the mod. It's inexpensive and doesn't take much time as long as you have the tools and skills. Good luck.
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  #30  
Old 09-27-2012, 08:08 PM
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John Lindemulder John Lindemulder
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I have been reading this thread, I recently purchased a 1991 1000f, has a great deal of cam chain noise until she warms up, then I don't hear it. What will happen if I let this go, I don't ride hard, although I enjoy taking off hard when conditions permit, I primarily enjoy touring with the bike
I am not afraid to wrench on the bike, but not real sure of my fabricating skills.
Suggestions?
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Old 09-27-2012, 08:08 PM
 
 
 
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Tags
1000, 929, arm, cam, cbr, cbr1000, cbr1000f, chain, guide, honda, kapa, kpa, mod, removal, remove, tensioner, timing


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