Next time you do an adjustment, take a picture. I'd sure like to see that.

 

So basically you made the poor auto tensioner into a manual one that will last.

Dub

 

I remodelled a standard one with a bolt too, will work well IF the bolt will take the strain - I never fitted it .................

 

Hey guys, Thought I had another tensioner layin around and was going to modify it, taking photos now that I have a digi camera. Can't find it, must have tossed it out. Will post photos next time I remove the tensioner, although it could be some time. New job, not much riding time.

 

Bloody hell,
I just stumbled on this thread. This problem is going to rumble on until some really and truly cracks it.
Butthead, you will have to explain your mad sounding idea in more detail with pictures. I could not grasp exactly what you've done by your explanation alone, but then I'm not the sharpest tool in the box to be honest.
I've thought about modifying the CCT to use oil pressure to add some force to the spring but I'm not sure that spring pressure alone is the answer.
I've had two CCt's on my 1KF since I've had her, one short spring and one long as Shadow mentioned, and to be honest the original (short) was perhaps better than the replacement (long).
I've run the engine several times with the cam cover off and have witnessed the chain vibrating sporadically, exactly in time to the sound we all hate, and when it rides over the guides smoothly, no noise. It's like a resonant frequency within the engine and so far I have not found a suitable explanation for it, given that a new CCT should work correctly, but they still allow the chain to loosen sufficiently to flap about periodically.
I'm going to be changing the head gasket soon and a thorough head overhaul and you can bet I'll be looking at this issue with microscopic inquisitivity. I'll also be changing the rear chain guide which can only be removed by seperating the head and check for wear on that little bitch. Honda made a seriously bad design error by trapping the pivot mounting in that way.
For all our sakes, this thread needs to be upheld until someone cracks it. And someone, someday.
Then another rattle free 150K miles are well on the cards.
That's phenomenal mileage mate. Congratulations. I'm 200 miles away from 80K. A mere child compared to your mammoth odo figures.
Do post back if you've got any more news. It's possibly the most important thing that Hurricane owners crave.

 

Henry, you have inspired me, inspired me to go into my somewhat cluttered garage and look again for an old CCT. Damned, if I didn't find one. Looks like a trip to hardware store is in order, will modify with step by step photos, and have someone show me how to post them (I'm not that Interweb savvy). And the world will be a happier place. Stay tuned.

 

OK, Here goes, you will need 1 6mm x 80mm bolt, 2 nuts and a washer, all hardened (very important). As for tools you will need, a bench grinder, flat files, a reciprocating (sabre) saw and a welder (MIG, TIG, gas or electric). Grind off the head of the pivot pin shown here.

 

Bear with me, the photos are a little small, but I think they will do. Push the pin out, don't loose the roller. Take the new bolt, grind off one of the points of the head as well as the inner portion of the pivot arm as shown. Remove just enough from the arm as to allow the bolt to be installed. You will have to wedge something into the arm to spread it enough to allow the bolt to fit.

 

Apparently there is a 1 photo per post law. Here is a shot of the parts after the grinding process.

 

And one with the bolt installed.