Just sent it to you. Thanks for your help.

 

C'mon Steve-O post up the link.

BIG THANKS TO HENRYM !!!!!!!!!!!

 

Well done. Thats thinking outside the square & I'm glad it's going just a temporary fix. I still have to wonder though, where are the broken bits? I hope you drained the oil & flushed her out just to reduce the chance of them getting caught up in there?

 

That's certainly a GREAT temp solution.
As all great ideas do, they have started to make me think - for example.
If you were able to find a primary chain with a masterlink, could you not replace the primary chain by working through the sump (don't know if the chain is visible, so bearwith me) DID make a camchain with a link, maybe a primary chain is a possibility.............that would allow the tensioner to re-use the ratchet mechanism which has become U/S because of the stretch in the chain................
The new chain could even be fed through from the tensioner side, as is done on the camchain,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
The other thought that comes to mind is - the primary chain could be tensioned from the other side, ie not below but on top -by maybe adding another layer of teflon to the upper guide........?to me it makes no difference which side you tension the chain, as the gearing seems to NOT be predetermined, ie you can fit the primary chain back in any position on the damper without it making any difference- unlike when doing the camchain.
Thinking a loud here - those of us who have done the damper successfully must be able to think of a lasting solution to the problem.
Thoughts................C'mon scratch heads...........
THANKS FOR A GREAT POST HENRY -You're a STAR !!!
None of the above is intended to reduce the value of what you have done, but now we know there IS a solution, we can look towards making it a more permanent one (maybe 15000 miles extra would be good, and allow you to save up enough clamshells to do the job properly......)
COMMENTS ??

 

I don't think there are any stray bits that have come out of the tensioner. Having studied the drawing from the manual and it appears that the ratchet is locked inside the lower casting. By feel it doesn't seem as though anything has burst out so I'm not worried. Didn't drain the oil yet as it's in good nick but will do it soon.
Sorry about not setting up the how to link Steve, I've not had time. It'll have to wait until end of play today. Thanks for putting it up.
It's good to see that this has got you all thinking though. I'll write some more thoughts tonight.

 

One more thought Henry - the engine oil temp will often climb a good way up there - the straps at 125C will be strong enough and not fail......???
The C section you used - steel ? what diameter to clear the spring ?
I just hope I can find some zip straps around here that'll take the temp ..............
Thanks again - I may have to do this repair soon......

 

I have thought about the internal temperatures of the engine and to be honest I'm not entirely sure what various components could reach. You have to accept that this has been a gamble based on intuition, distance from exhaust gasses and a bit of hope (there's always hope). If I could find someone with a medical camera I'd love to whip the starter out and have a look to see what's going on but for now all I have is my daily riding experience. So far so good!
Given that my commute to work consists of 30 miles of fast motorway and 14 miles of suburban and city riding each way I'd say that's a pretty good test for it. The fan will come on at regular intervals once I've got deep into London so I have reached pretty high operating temperatures regularly. The motorway stretch is usually a mix of 80-100 MPH speeds. It's getting noticeably colder here in the UK now but still ambient average of 15 degrees C or 59F in old money. It will soon be down to sub 10C ambient but the engine will be working around the same temp internally I guess.
If I had had time I would have liked to have found a suitable metal alternative to the zip tie. I thought about jubilee clips but there's just not enough room to work with one of those in that confined space.
If anyone can find an alternative to heat resistant nylon I'd love to hear about it.
As far as your ideas about adding additional teflon to the guides I have no idea how you'd go about that. Sounds like a job for a chemist.
Your thoughts about introducing a tensioner to the top guide are probably not practical as the top guide is fixed at both ends and if you could get something behind it you might be lucky to move it by 2 mm at most. The tensioner has almost 30 mm of travel on the shaft. I don't think you improve on that.
As for an alternator chain with a master link, I don't know..... that would be a real bitch to work with in situ. it may be possible though.
It seems to me that having spoken to a number of Honda dealers recently the real problem lies with the ratchet failing. This seems to be the most common fault.
I am wondering if there's a way to produce a true hydraulic tensioner. That would have the advantage of giving the correct tension at all times, not relying on a flimsy little spring and also that you could release the tension to be able to remove and service the alternator shaft and associated parts without the worry about how you're going to get the thing back in without having to do battle with the ratchet, assuming it's working correctly when you want to remove the alternator.
This would take some serious designing but I'm sure it could be done. I wonder if Honda would be interested in the idea?
For now though, I'm up and running, still grinning and enjoying the bike as it should be enjoyed.
CBR has now posted this up as a 'how to'. I hope this little seed of inspiration keeps growing.

 

Maybe these would be good
http://www.plastic-parts.co.uk/mss/m...-6TMAT7-65632#
Cheap too