Well I thought that since I've read so much the last couple of years about regulator/rectifier issues, and there was a little blank spot on the fairing to the left of the tank, I'd just install a voltmeter. Marine (waterproof) and economical (cheap) were the criteria, and when I found one that was both, AND said 'Honda' on it, I couldn't resist.
After I figured out what I wanted to do, naturally, I found a pic on another site by a guy that had done the same thing on a VFR, so I'm not as smart as I thought I was, but anyway, here goes:

First, I removed the nose fairing and put a layer of fiberglass and thickened resin (I'm an amateur boatbuilder) under the spot where I wanted to put the gauge to strengthen the area. In retrospect, the plastic was stouter than I thought, so this is probably not necessary.
Fiberglass.jpg?t=1373072427

Note: The fairing clips under the headlight are a pain to remove until you understand how the work. They're like dry-wall anchors. The middle pin is threaded and can be unscrewed until it's far enough out to get your fingernails under and pull it out.
Leave the pin out when you re-install. Push the outer piece into the hole and then push the pin in and you're all set. The one on the left is as you will find it when you get ready to remove, the one on the right is as it is when you pull it out, and as it needs to be to be reinstalled:
Fasteners.jpg?t=1373071499

After triple-checking the area under the fairing panel for clearance, I taped and marked the circle, trying to center it on the panel and still have it located such that the back of the gauge would not hit the frame.
Then, after staring at the irreplaceable faring and the 1 5/8" hole saw for 10 minutes, I let 'er rip. 15 seconds of terror, and it was done.
Drilledit.jpg?t=1373071895

I used the label from the package that the gauge came in as a template, since the back of the gauge fit it perfectly. I used a sanding drum on the Dremel and had it hogged out to size in about 3 minutes. Be careful, once the plastic gets warmed up by friction, it disappears pretty rapidly.
You can see here the hole I drilled in comparison to the actual size of the gauge. I wanted plenty of wiggle room. I just ground away until the hole was the same size as the template.
Template.jpg?t=1373071854

The manual's electrical schematic shows a green/white wire from the fuse box that doesn't seem too heavily loaded (brake light, horn, turn signals) so I tapped into that with a wire tap. If you're not familiar, you slide it over the wire that you want power from, slip the wire that you're going to use into it, and the little metal blade cuts the insulation and makes contact with both wires. In these 2 photos, the black wire takes the place of the green/white one coming out of the fuse box (too tight under the fuse box to get a good pic) and the red one is the power wire for the gauge. 1st photo shows the blade beside the tap, 2nd photo shows the blade in place just before you would close the lid and push the blade down across the wires:
ClosedSplice.jpg?t=1373072353
OpenSplice.jpg?t=1373072279

I soldered a female spade connector for the lighting terminal and a fork connector for the gauge power onto the wire so I'd only have to run one power wire from the fuse box:
Positives.jpg?t=1373072200

There is a handy bolt holding the tip-over bumper to the main frame just below where the gauge is mounted, so I crimped fork connectors on both ends of this wire and bolted it on to use as the ground.
(Note. This wire was about 3/8" too short, so I had to make another one. Doh!)
Ground.jpg?t=1373072387

Spent 45 minutes putting the fairing/windshield/mirrors, etc. back on, opened the garage door and pushed her out to go for a ride. Then noticed these on the floor. (Doh! again)
They hold the bottom of the upper fairing to the frame and their location is hidden by the top of the lower fairing.
Dangit.jpg?t=1373071532

Came out looking pretty good, I think, and it works!! 14 volts +/- above 2,500 rpm, 12.5 volts +/- at idle.
ItWorks.jpg?t=1373071467

Looks factory, and blends in with the black and white paint scheme on the old '94.
FinishedProduct.jpg?t=1373071254

To my surprise and immense satisfaction, the voltmeter is a perfect match for the factory gauges on the bike. White dials, but orange/red under illumination.
The crappy cell phone pic doesn't really show the color well, but trust me, the match is perfect with the bike's instrument lighting.
Illumination.jpg?t=1373071213

The voltmeter is a Honda Marine 'fog-resistant' voltmeter, part# 37453-ZW5-000ZA.
I purchased mine from Boats.net for 22 bucks and it was at my house 3 days after I ordered it.
The old bike is a '94 CBR1000F, purchased new by me as a 'last-year's model' in '96. I love the damned thing, although I just put Gen-Mar risers on it and am planning on lowering the pegs, as I'm not quite as young as I once was.
I had a great day tinkering on the bike and ended up with a good-looking, useful mod for only 22 bucks and a few hours of time. If you like it, go for it. It was an easy project.
(I fiberglassed the other side of the fairing while I had it off the bike, thinking of possibly put a clock over there. Teleflex, who manufacture the Honda voltmeter, make a nifty little marine clock that should match...)

 

Your images won't open.
I'll change your status and see if that will help.........

 

Fixed. Thanks, Shadow.

 

Looks good.

 

As your good with fiberglassing would you be able to make a rear seat cowl clip over for my 1999 cbr 600 f4 instead of me paying 150 online?

 

If you lived next door, it might make a good Saturday project, but I'm not really any good with that stuff. I do sympathize with anyone who has to buy factory parts from Honda though. [Grits teeth]

 

A brilliant idea, and after breaking down due to Reg/Rec failure I thought I would do the same for my bike, although I fitted it to the other side. Being a paranoid kind of person, I think an oil pressure gauge would be good too. So I got a 10 bar (150psi) gauge from Teleflex, a sender, and am now waiting for the temperature to go above freezing so I can spend some time in the garage to fit it.

On the left side - where you fitted your voltmeter, there doesn't seem to be much wiggle room for the gauge. There is a frame stay for the fuse box and a main frame rail near to that. How did you get the positioning right before you drilled the hole in the fairing? I thought of practicing with a cardboard template made to the same size as the fairing panel, but you may have a better idea......