replacing fork seals question, cbr600f2
#1
replacing fork seals question, cbr600f2
The time has come for me to replace my seals and clean my fork travel area. I have a tool that me and my friend made for my Yamaha that is just a long piece of rebar with a 5/8 nut welded to the end (15/16 socket fits on it). I just stick it down the shaft of the fork and hold the top of the tool while I loosen the hex key on the bottom since I don't have access to an impact gun. So my question is this: would the same tool work for me on the cbr600 f2? The nut at the bottom is a reverse socket 15/16 size or I guess the metric equivalent would be 25mm reverse socket??? Unless you would call that a large hex key? I've never seen one that large though. All I need to know is if the bolt at the bottom is the same size as my Yamaha's. Thanks!!!
#2
? I've rebuilt 2 F2 forks lately and have no idea what you're referring to. The bolt that inserts in from the bottom of the fork is a simple 5 or 6mm allen. Loosen it first, but don't remove. Then back the preload off w/ the adjuster @ the top n then tke the upper fork cap off. Take the internals out, clean and dry. Set aside.
Separate the upper leg from the lower by removing that lower fork bolt, then use the upper and lower tubes as a slide hammer until they pop apart, taking the oil seals with it.
Bout all there is to it.
Separate the upper leg from the lower by removing that lower fork bolt, then use the upper and lower tubes as a slide hammer until they pop apart, taking the oil seals with it.
Bout all there is to it.
#3
#4
ahh - gotcha - no on the ones I've done, the bottom bolt is loctited so it is a little hard to break loose, but if you leave normal spring tension on the fork while you break it free, it'll come on out on its own.
same for putting it back in, you start the bolt until everything tries to spin, then reinstall the top cap to put tension on the fork spring, then everything else pretty much is locked in so you can retighten the bolt.
Word to the wise - I tried reusing the copper washer on those bottom bolts on one rebuild - both ended up leaking. They need to be replaced when you put the forks back together. It is an 8mm ID copper washer.
same for putting it back in, you start the bolt until everything tries to spin, then reinstall the top cap to put tension on the fork spring, then everything else pretty much is locked in so you can retighten the bolt.
Word to the wise - I tried reusing the copper washer on those bottom bolts on one rebuild - both ended up leaking. They need to be replaced when you put the forks back together. It is an 8mm ID copper washer.
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WhiteHawk
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