Tell ya what i have no even touched the pilot screw because i dont have the tool to remove it

 

what type of gasket material did you use on the float bowls? gas will eat through RTV.
it sounds like your pilot screws are out of adjustment. if you have a dremel you can cut a notch into them so you can use a flathead screwdriver to adjust them. I dont remember the factory settings, 1.75 turns out maybe? theres a whole process to set them properly, but the factory setting will get you real close.

if you did a compression test right after the engine was put together then that will be low until the rings seat properly. and having the carbs off while doing it is fine, the idea behind having it at WOT is to not restrict the air coming in.

 

My gakset sealer is permex max resistance to oil. I had some guys who really know what they are doing help me with the motor. Yeah ok. Im currently at school at missouri state. Dont have access to alot of my powertools such as my dremel at home. How else could i cut a slot. Cause i have yet to see the pilots and that sounds like it could be my issue

 

Solution: harbor frieght here in springfield sells them retarded cheap. 8 bucks for the dremel and a bunch of attachments to cut and what not. Since i already have one thats what i need to one job. Ill get one. Amd some more carb cleaner and take care of this pilot. Hopefully i find something

 

compression test tells you if your rings, or valves are leaky / worn / seating properly - whether the carbs are on or off will not affect it at all. Nor will throttle position.

 

You can also use a hacksaw to cut the slot. I have done this before and it is simple and requires very little effort.

You can also try a spent .22 shell casing if you have access to one. I've read where folks have had good luck bending one 8nto the required D shape. J tried it but didn't have the same luck as reported by others, but could have just not had enough patience.

 

A couple things regarding the pilot screws. They are what determine the amount of fuel that is getting in during idle, so their position is pretty critical. Before removing them find a way to mark their positions, not only for which carburetor they came from but also where the flat spot on the head is pointing. Like is it pointing to 1 o'clock, or 7 o'clock. Another thing to do is before removing them, turn each one in (gently clockwise) until they stop, count the rotations and record that number. What you want to know is are they 1.5 turns from fully closed, or 2.5 turns or what? The other thing to note is are they all the same? They will either be within 1/8 of a turn from each other or be all the same. (at least they should be). Use caution when turning them in to find out how far out they are from closed as they are easily damaged. Also use caution when removing them, there is a small spring, a washer and most importantly a really tiny O ring. I would replace the O rings on them if at all possible. If these carburetors have been dunked into any solvents during the cleaning process over their lifetimes, there is a good chance that they're hard as rocks and not doing their jobs.

Performing the Idle Drop procedure to adjust the idle air mixture can be really tough to do without special tools, especially since it needs to be done when the engine is warm and we all know what the means, burnt hands. The initial position for them is 1.5 turns out from fully in. The manual writes that as 1 -2/4. I think something got lost in translation from Japanese to English in my opinion. I think making sure that they're all in the same position is going to be the best thing.

Also, a note on doing the compression test and WOT. It doesn't mean that the engine is supposed to be running, it's not. You are supposed to do it by just using the starter motor. Opening the throttle fully (WOT) while doing the test is to ensure that there are no restrictions in the intake side so that the cylinder can pull in as much air as possible.

Good luck...

 

Way back I had fuel problems like this, though they were with dirt bike singles. Once with an incorrect float height, another a holed float and another time with the needle cut-off not shutting off the fuel into the carb. Though I also recollect playing around with jet sizes.