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Temperature gauge/ delayed throttle response!!

  #21  
Old 01-07-2017, 09:50 AM
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Default Update, battery problem is back!

Okay so yesterday I brought the bike outside. It's been about three weeks since I have even tried starting it. But no matter, because it has been stored inside and nothing left on. I wheeled it out, turned three key and hit the starter. *click click click click* the battery was dead mostly dead... again. So adding to my list of problems, it has to either be the stator or the regulator correct? Please give me and and all feedback on this. It's project time and I have the budget ready to order parts. But first I need the know how Involving checking both the stator and regulator. How to test them and see where the problem is. I have a multimeter so all I need to know is where to stick the needle. Any and all information is greatly appreciated.

Tonight i am dismantleing the bike, and draining the fluids. This will bring me to a situation where I'm all in on fixing what needs to be fixed. Also, it's cold out so hurray for choosing a day to freeze myself and work on my bike. Please let me know any and all information pertaining to my battery not staying charged issue! Thank you!
(P.s. My previous posts shows when the battery was last fully charged. Like 6weeks ago, so there is no reason for it to die especially when I haven't used the bike) something is fishy
 
  #22  
Old 01-07-2017, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Jaybird180
Pickup a Service Manual. You can find a .pdf online and/or get a hardcopy. I have the .pdf service manual and Haynes. I often use the Haynes.
Where did you find this PDF service manual because I have tried looking everywhere.. can't find anything but astronomically priced paper editions.
 
  #23  
Old 01-07-2017, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 12michael15
Where did you find this PDF service manual because I have tried looking everywhere.. can't find anything but astronomically priced paper editions.
Tech forum stickys.
 
  #24  
Old 01-07-2017, 12:43 PM
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Heres the manual...Dont worry it will cover yours. Subframes (Rear seat and the frame that holds it is slightly different.

F4i Manual

Unless you feel super compelled to take your bike apart. I would start working one issue at a time. Have you load tested the battery? Yes they should be ok when they are new but doesnt mean they are. Also doesnt mean it will hold the charge, plus they sit on a shelf for sometime usually before they are sold. And if you dont have a tender on it then it wil not hold voltage over long periods of time. Suggest getting a battery maintainer. You need to have proper voltage when testing things related to voltage and it doesnt take much for a battery to dip below what it should be (More than 12 volts) when cranking. Plus a maintainer isnt meant to charge a battery, just slowly bring the volts up, and keep it there (Float) its not a charger. You could get a jump pack for testing purposes plus will have it on hand for situations like this.
 

Last edited by PossibleOne; 01-07-2017 at 12:47 PM.
  #25  
Old 01-21-2017, 01:01 PM
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Default Battery/charging system diagnostics

Okay, I went and had the battery fully charger at an auto parts store. They also tested the battery afterwards and the machine read that the battery was good. I took the battery home and for my own eyes, tested the colts on the battery not hooked to anything. Using a multimeter, the battery read 12.43. From my understanding that is a good reading. Now this was five days ago. I have the battery sitting on a table not connected to anything, (inside my house, so no weather is getting to it). I plan on doing some work on the bike tonight and this morning I checked the battery and it read 12.193..... it has dropped almost 2.5 volts just sitting on a table!!!! In five days!!!! Is that normal. And before anyone says it, yes I plan to use a battery tender once it comes in but is this a sign the battery is not actually good? Granted I know it might not be the only problem but I deffinately need to rule it out before doing the other test to get accurate results (meaning testing the recitifier and stator, I need to be sure my battery is good before these test).
For now this is the issue I am being to everyone's attention. I am taking it one step at a time and addressing the problems in the order I see fit. Thank you for your help!
 
  #26  
Old 01-21-2017, 04:21 PM
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Well its not really as simple as the battery is good and bad. There is thresholds and such. Tons of variables that effect the performance and behavior. Batteries self discharge. This is why its crucical to use a maintainer, not a trickle charger, to keep the battery in between a state of discharge and overcharge. I think I read somewhere that they can drop as much as 1 percent a day. Even not in use. Not counting small things connected like your bikes clock for example. So in your case if you do that math going from 12.4 to 12.2 is well less in this case than one percent. Sounds normal. Lastly what the auto parts store (not known for being the best in regards of customer service) could have load tested it and it could have been say 75% good and they are just gonna tell you good. Bottom line is do some research on batteries how they work and how to get the most out of them. I know of a good article you can find it here. Cheers.

Battery Information - Yuasa
 
  #27  
Old 01-23-2017, 12:44 PM
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Default Charging system diagnostics

Hoorah!!!!
nothing positive has happened yet but Im excited to add to my post with actual questions and not useless updates.
In response to previous post about the battery acting normal when slowly dishcrging itself.... it just seems weird to me that a battery can't sit on a table not connected and a week go by, ending with not having enough juice to start a bike. Seems a bit excessive. But never mind that for now.. I hooked the battery back up to the bike and started her up. Using a multimeter I checked the voltage while running to see if in fact the charging system was functioning or not. The voltage dropped to 11.8. So no, something is wrong with charging system. Now we move to the test in order to diagnose the issue with either the stator or the recitifier. Recitifier test to see if the three readoutd are the same or really close. All three read a 523 diode. Which to my understand is good and shows that the recitifier is working properly. Next is to test the ohms reading from the stator. All three were a .7, which if I understand as long as it's between .1-1ohms the stator is working properly. Now if all the test are proven to work properly then why is it not charging? Any ideas?? Is there more conclusive tests or maybe the main fuse cause issues. I'm checking the fuse tonight. Or maybe the battery is bad and causing the problems? Thank you for all the help.
 
  #28  
Old 01-26-2017, 06:07 PM
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Dropping from 12.5 to 12.1v just sitting unhooked for 4 days is a bad battery/not holding a charge in my world.
 
  #29  
Old 01-27-2017, 05:26 AM
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Yea I agree, especially with no load. Get it on a trickle and see if it will float it. The main problems Ive had with these AGM's is I can get them to hold 11 volts but my Tender will take it to 14 some attempt to float then dips back down to 11 something so yea bad cell in there somewhere.

I mean if youre not charging it could be that you arent running it enough. At idle these bikes have more of a draw than a charge. Go out and ride it get the revs up above 4 thousand, then check the voltage. But to me just seems like a bad battery. Not sure if you have said but how old is it? Ive seen some of these go out really fast before.
 
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