Hi! Long time no post! I have no spark on my f4i. Things I've checked: continuity in all harnesses. Initial voltage at coils. Stator resistance within spec. Kill switch toggle working. Fuel pump priming. Engine kill relays working on the sub frame. New reg/rectifier. New battery. Kickstand checked, neutral switch checked. Headlight bulk connector hooked up. every connection cleaned with contact cleaner. Ignition key working I think except the pink anti theft wire carries 10.54 volts and it's been said it should carry 9v I'm not sure if this is good or bad. My peak voltage adaptor arrives tomorrow to test out of some components for sure. I'm concerned about my anti theft shorting out if it's giving me 10.54 volts with key on and then test the battery desperate it gives me 12.75V. Am I missing something? I really hope it's not my ECU! Any simple suggestions or in depth answers would help me greatly. I've been troubleshooting for about a week now on and off. I'm sorry if this is long or poorly typed, I typed it pretty fast. I'm sorry if this has been covered in the past but I've searched all over and been knee deep in a service manual. Any input would be greatly appreciated. I forget to mention my bike ran when I parked it last year but had to have my tank color matched to my new fairings so I had no key because I left it in the tank when I gave it to my brother in law to paint. I checked to see if my new LED mirror turn signals were working wired by jumping two wires in the natural colored connector that goes to my ignition but didn't cut anything, or take off the triple tree to mess with any of the actual ignition system. Bank angle sensor bypassed as well

 

I'm curious how this turned out for you mikeyg. Did you solve your issue?
If not, have you tested your ignition pulse generator with the peak voltage adaptor you bought?

 

Hey, sorry for not replying promptly! The next day or so I hooked up my peak voltage adaptor to my multimeter and probed my coils harness and not the sub coil harness, I was only receiving like 2-3 volts while cranking the engine. In the service manual it states I'm to get 100v minimum and actually the very first thing you're to replace when you fail this test is? You might have guessed.... AN ECM! After perusing ebay I picked one up for 250$ buy it now. After some days of shipping I plugged it in and it fired right up! I was really hoping it was the ignition pulse generator or cam position sensor, no luck. I have a suggestion for people buying an ECM if they need one. Be SURE that if your original bikes ECM states A12 at the end of the part number buy the A12, if it has L12 badged on its model number sticker, buy the L12. I researched ECMS before buying mine and heard if you install the wrong model it causes your FI light to mess up and run rich.

 

Did u need to code the ecu for the hiss system, or is it just to change ? I have issues to, it wont start, no spark. But the fuel pump revs, i have only 1 volt on the pink cable

 

Hi what exactly is happening with your bike?

 

it just dont get any spark, i do have new plugs. But my pink wire that ppl talk abt should be 9 volt, i got 1,5 volt.. but the strange thing is that my fuel pump is ok..

 

Has there been any new parts added to your bike ,and when was the last time it ran ok?

 

Nope, no new parts. I did start it for 10 sec about 15 mins earlier. The battery was not all that, but startet up easy. When i took it out for my first ride after winter it was dead, fuel pump ok, so i am not sure it could be the 9 volt pink wire

 

Hi are you saying the battery was dead after the ride?

 

No, it was not that good after winter storage i did never get the ride