Hey All,

I'm kind of a weight weenie and am looking into front rotors for the F4i to decrease rotating weight.

I use the bike for daily driving, drag racing, and would like to get into a trackday here and there (nothing too serious).

A quick google search comes up with these:



Honda CBR 600 F4i Rotors- Left Side Front, Right Side Front Rotors- Yana Shiki :: Honda :: Rotors :: Xtreme Discount Cycle




EBC Front Contour Rotor Set Honda CBR 600 F4i Sport 01-06


A quick ebay search shows:


NEW CBR 600RR 1000RR F4i RC51 RACING front ROTORS US | eBay

01-06 CBR600F F4I EBC Pro-Lite Contoured Front Brake Rotor POLISHED CARRIER | eBay


Yes, I know there are other, more cost-effective ways to decrease weight... I'm just wondering if any of you have experience with any kind of aftermarket lightweight rotors.

Thanks in advance!

 

No experience with anything like that, but it seems like if the goal is to reduce centrifugal force, the results would be negligible. Rotors are already light-weight in relation to the wheel assembly, as well as having a relatively small diameter.

The only reason why I would buy aftermarket rotors is for improved stopping.

 

Thanks for your input!

Weight loss is one area where a single modification almost never 'makes sense'. But a lot of little things can add up to make a difference.

Fortunately, there are many 'free mods' you can do when doing weight removal. Unforunately, the weight reduction methods that cost money are... expensive!

 

Revolutionary New Carbon Fiber Motorcycle Wheel from Rotobox

Some of those would be nice. I don't even want to know how much they cost.

 

No rotor is going improve stopping distance. How hard the brake pads can grip the rotor is completely up to the tire grip, given the same pads and calipers. But even with a grippier pad, stopping distance is STILL controlled by tire grip. Rotors are the least influential part in the system.

 

Maybe for one initial, test rotors won't make a difference, but what about on the track with frequent, heavy braking? There's a reason why average consumer cars have non-vented non-drilled rotors and high performance cars do. The ability to dissipate heat is very important for performance braking, maybe even more-so than the other factors you named.

 

I think a car with blank rotors would brake harder than a c-drilled rotor because it has more surface area for the pad to bite on and has more mass that can absorb heat. I always thought the c-drilled thing was for looks on high end cards and for weight savings

 

if you want more stopping power so you can decelerate later in corners, then you get bigger rotors and pads.... not cute rotors with more holes and less surface area.

 

For repeated heavy stops, of course you need more brake rotor to absorb the heat, hence why people get big brake kits for cars, but these lightweight rotors acutally work the other way, if they are lighter they can hold LESS heat (if they are actually significantly lighter. If you want to endure repeated stops, use the biggest rotors you can and get pads that work at higher temps.

 

It depends. If you aren't running the pads and rotor super hot then your correct, blanks will brake better. But if your getting the pads hot enough to create gasses then the cross drilled rotors are better as they allow a path for the gas to escape instead of coming between the pad and rotor.

People don't get big brake kits to get more rotor mass. Larger diameter brakes have more leverage. You can get more brake pressure from a larger rotor while using the same size caliper and pad. Thats the only reason for going with larger rotors.

Motorcycle rotors are extremely thin. No matter what you do, they are going to heat up very quickly. You need lots of cooling area [holes and slots] to maximize heat dissapation. Seeing as they are very thin, they heat up quickly but don't hold alot of heat energy wise, so all the cooling holes and slots can keep up with the heat your putting into them.