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  #1  
Old 03-08-2009, 07:47 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
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Default DIY valve timing adjustments?

Its time for me to get my valve timing adjustment checked, get the CCTL changed, flush the brake lines/fluids, install a new chain/sprockets and rear tire. I knew it was going to be expensive so I wasn't surprised by the prices I got back but I want to tackle what I can by myself to save money and learn more about my bike.

The sprockets, chain and tire will be done by a shop, I don't feel comfortable doing alignment/tire balancing, plus I don't have a chain breaker/riveter.

I know there are a few of you who have tackled valve timing adjustment and CCTL's, was is something you could handle with a walk through? I am somewhat mechanically inclined, I may not know every part but I can figure things out quickly with a manual. I know that they are both time consuming, but how technical are they? I assume the CCTL is fairly straight forward once you get the case cover off and actually get to it, I however don't have any insight on valve timing.

If you have any advice, tips or guides that you found helpful with either of these, please post them or PM to me. I can save myself about $500 doing the work myself.
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01 CBR f4i - Blk/Slvr
Vortex -1/+2
D.I.D 525 O-ring
D&D Satin blk slip-on (yes, they are loud, but sound clean)
PCIII - custom mapped
Intergrated tail w/ custom cutting
Short stalk CF blinkers
PP 2ct's
K&N air/oil filters
20+ HP worth of after market stickers!
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  #2  
Old 03-08-2009, 08:57 PM
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you won't have to actually take your bike out of time to check your valve clearance, only if you actually have to replace shims to change the clearance back to spec

what i'd do is get down to and remove your valve cover, and then you can rotate the motor with the timing hole on the right side, just turn the motor over so that you can check each vavle's clearance against the manual
generally unless your bike has been sluggish lately you won't have to swap out shims.

then, push down on the cam chain in between the camshaft sprockets while you remove the CCT. this will keep the loose chain from jumping any teeth so you won't go out of time. then replace the tensioner with a manually adjustable unit and reassemble your bike.

if you do need to replace shims, you'll have to take the cams out to get to the buckets. look in your service manual for details about this bc it's a little more indepth than i'd like to go into on a post.
if that's the case just email me at bwayers2006@yahoo.com and i'll talk ya through it.
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  #3  
Old 03-09-2009, 02:59 AM
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Sweet, appreciate the help offered! I wont be starting on this till the end of this month, i want to wait for my tax return and do it all at once.
__________________
01 CBR f4i - Blk/Slvr
Vortex -1/+2
D.I.D 525 O-ring
D&D Satin blk slip-on (yes, they are loud, but sound clean)
PCIII - custom mapped
Intergrated tail w/ custom cutting
Short stalk CF blinkers
PP 2ct's
K&N air/oil filters
20+ HP worth of after market stickers!
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-18-2009, 08:36 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: MA
Posts: 68
Default valve adjustment f4I

http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/fo...t=85499&page=2
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  #5  
Old 04-18-2009, 10:15 AM
DFour's Avatar
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j4eric... great find man. good work.
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Old 04-18-2009, 10:15 AM
 
 
 
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Tags
adjust, adjusting, adjustment, adjustments, barf, cap, cbr, cbr600, cbr600f4i, diy, f4, f4i, hole, timing, valve


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