Checking Valve Clearance
#3
#4
I changed the coolant as soon as I got the bike so I didn't have to worry about the possibility of it freezing.
Shouldn't be too big of a deal to remove the radiator though I guess, as long as it isn't overly cramped getting to the bolts or stuck on something really good like my throttle bodies. I ended up leaving the throttle bodies on and was still able to get at the intake valves. Not sure why it says in the manual to remove them.
One more question: why should I remove the cam chain tensioner before checking the valves? Is it something to do with the way the automatic tensioner works or does it affect anything to just have that tension on the chain?
Shouldn't be too big of a deal to remove the radiator though I guess, as long as it isn't overly cramped getting to the bolts or stuck on something really good like my throttle bodies. I ended up leaving the throttle bodies on and was still able to get at the intake valves. Not sure why it says in the manual to remove them.
One more question: why should I remove the cam chain tensioner before checking the valves? Is it something to do with the way the automatic tensioner works or does it affect anything to just have that tension on the chain?
Last edited by ShtBiker; 02-08-2017 at 12:27 PM.
#6
I unbolted the radiator without taking the hoses off and it still gave me plenty of room to work. Every single intake valve was tight. Now I see why the throttle bodies have to be removed. I have to take them off to get to the cam chain tensioner in order to remove the cam. Those rubber pipes are stuck on there like glue.
#9
I've got everything adjusted and am in the process of reassembly now. My problem now is I didn't mark which ignition coil came from which cylinder so I don't know where to put them back. Does anyone have the info on which goes where?
Edit: Nevermind. I found a wiring diagram showing which one goes to which cylindre.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...ring%20big.png
I noticed the coils didn't really "snap" on to the plugs like they have on my other bikes. They just kind of push down into place with no identifying sound or feeling when they bottom out. Is this pretty normal?
Edit: Nevermind. I found a wiring diagram showing which one goes to which cylindre.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...ring%20big.png
I noticed the coils didn't really "snap" on to the plugs like they have on my other bikes. They just kind of push down into place with no identifying sound or feeling when they bottom out. Is this pretty normal?
Last edited by ShtBiker; 02-11-2017 at 11:20 PM.
#10
I noticed the coils didn't really "snap" on to the plugs like they have on my other bikes. They just kind of push down into place with no identifying sound or feeling when they bottom out. Is this pretty normal?
if they really aren't clicking, there's a little bent metal spring clip thing (the part that makes the clicking sound), it might need to be cleaned or checked, i've seen 'em stick before, but i have trouble believing all your coils at the same time would do that, so i bet you aren't pushing hard enough.
My problem now is I didn't mark which ignition coil came from which cylinder so I don't know where to put them back. Does anyone have the info on which goes where?
One more question: why should I remove the cam chain tensioner before checking the valves? Is it something to do with the way the automatic tensioner works or does it affect anything to just have that tension on the chain?