Message from Sand.Man:

I would like to merge this thread with the other charging system troubleshooting thread I created. I will do this after I finish moving all threads to their designated sub-forum.

There's a lot of threads about troubleshooting RR, but it's hard to find info on where to buy a good replacement. So here' my story. If you're not into long stories just skip to next message for usefull links.
I bought my 1991 cbr F2 in May 2006 with 16,000. I knew that R/R was a weak spot, so when I had my battery die on me AFTER a ride in October 2006, I decided to check the regulator/rectifier voltage output first. At idle it was about 12.3, and no matter how high I would rev it up it wouldn't read more than 12.4.
Before blaming the R/R I did the stator check: consistent resistance 0.5 -0.6 between each 3 wires and cosistent AC voltage as well
( about 50V at 5000rpm). I also checked resistance between each stator wire and ground- there was no short. That means stator is good.
I also tried to do reg/rect resistence check according to Clymer manual, but you need a special brand multimeter.
I went to www.electrosport.com to buy replacement ( $110). I installed it and around 5000rpm I would get 14.5 V- good!!
I had my headlight off the bike at that time and I did carburator synch( which includes a lot of idling). I finished that and took the bike for a ride- everything seemed ok. Then, before putting the plastics back I decided to check the R/R voltage again to be sure, and--it was 12.3 at 5000rpm. I was shocked!!! My new Electrosport Reg/rec got fried in one day. I did load it up pretty good by idling without headlights for 15-20 mins while doing carb synch but still!!
I took off R/R and did R/R DIODE TEST according to this ( Page C)
http://www.offwidth.co.uk/bike/gener...lt_finding.pdf
I highly recommend this troubleshooting chart.
I found that one of the diodes was bad.
I called electrosport and since my unit has a warranty they agreed to exchange it for me. Later I found out that you can put a suzuki gsxr unit, so I cancelled my elecrtosport reg/rect and they refunded my money( except for shipping).
I bought a 2003-2004 gsxr R/R off ebay for $20.
It has 5 wires, like honda but the connector is different.
Identifying wires is easy:
Honda Suzuki
3 white( alternator) 3 black
1 Red ( positive)1 black/red
1 green( negative)1 black/white
I cut off both connectors and soldered the wires, since I heard the connectors are a part of the problem anyway( they create a lot of resistence and my cause R/R to burn)
Suziki R/R is much bigger than honda unit, and since I'm kinda a perfectionist I removed all the bolts that attach the plate through which R/R is mounted to the frame. I drilled 2 new holes, so that new suzuki gsxr R/R seats perfectly, I also used CPU heat grease between the plate, R/R and frame( just in case). Suzuki Unit fits perfectly and has enough clearance for plastics and seat. It does seem to give out a lot of charge right off idle and then taper off to 14.5 as rpms increase.( 12.3 at idle 14.8 at 2300 rpm 14.5 at 5000)
I also installed a 5 function digital voltmeter. http://www.casporttouring.com/store/...de=Electronics
I attached it to the speedometer lig

 

SUMMARY( Usefull links)

1)Troubleshooting Reg/Rect and the whole charging system
Reg/Rect diode test on Page C

http://www.offwidth.co.uk/bike/gener...lt_finding.pdf

2)Alternative set up instructions
a) GSXR Unit
http://www.superhawkforum.com/forums...ead.php?t=1646

b) Yamaha R1 unit
http://www.vlc.com.au/~justin/about/...g_replace.html

3) Where to buy
a) used gsxr or yamaha unit ( I HIGHLY RECOMMEND getting a suzuki unit.(I have 2003-2004 GSXR1000 but I think all units about after 2000 are interchangeable.MAKE SURE it HAS only ONE CONNECTOR on the end, not two.) It has wires coming out of it as opposed to the connector, so it's very easy to solder , to the wire harness. It's a little bit more work, but should be the most reliable solution. )
ebay $20- 100

b) tour max unit ( i've heard that those are pretty reliable,and its plug in 'n play set up )
at cycletherapy.com or ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CBR-6...spagenameZWD1V

c) new updated oem honda unit with cooling fins ( I also heard that those might be good, plug in 'n play as well)
http://partsfinder.ridenow.com/fiche_section_detail.asp

d) electrosport and rick's aftremarket R/R

I've heard mixed reviews of their products. Anybody has electrosport or ricks?
www.electrosport.com
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/

( My electrosport unit ESR580 didn't look like it's picture on the website.( the unit I got was similar, but the cooling fins where much smaller, which already got me alerted) Then it burned in one day , however it might have been a single bad part and the rest of them good- I don't want to write the company off my list as yet, especially when they have a great troubleshooting diagrams on the website and customer service was good)
I didnt try Ricks, I read in some forums it's better than electrosport.

4) Voltmeter set up
http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/AftermarketVoltmeterFAQ.htm

Let me guys know if you have any questions

 

if the higher the rpms go the higher the voltage is does that mean my stator is bad? the rr has been replaced already and the battery still overcharges and boils the acid out. ive read the windings can go bad and cause this. any thoughts?

 

The peak voltage on stock should be around 5000 rpm. What voltage to you get at different rpms? It shouldn't exceed 15 V in any rpm.

 

Got a quick question...does the power to engine go through the R/R or straight from the generator...to fire the plugs. My bike dies and seems to be running directly off the batteries...the bike will die when I disconnect the + battery terminal. I am hoping it can be the R/R...much cheaper than the alternative and I have read F2's are notorious for a bad R/R...

 

I can't figure out what is wrong with my bike. If anything maybe my RR is overcharging or just plain screwed.

I found a website that showed me how to check everything. Everything shows up fine but it was over 15 sometimes whenever I checked it at 5k volts.

I have been riding it for 4 days this week...just off and on. Small trips. Buddy comes by and wants to ride. I tell him I don't trust my bike yet because its been killing batteries left and right. He talks me into it. Sure enough it quit on me again.

But anyways should I try changing the RR? I have installed 2 brand new batteries. Here is what happens. It will run fine....and if i only go short distances it seems to be fine. But when I ride for any sort of long distance it will drain the battery big time. Push starting it will yield very little if any difference.

Like I said I checked everything and it seems to be fine. I did notice something wierd...either my voltmeter is screwed or my RR is overcharging because after running for a short ways yesterday it said I had 14 volts with the bike off...then 12.3 at idle and 13.5-16v revving. It varied. I think my RR may be toast.

 

I have also just noticed that my RR does have cooling fins so I assume it has been changed before.

 

GSXR RRdoesn't plug in, because the plug is different. The easy way is
crimping wires but the proper way is to solder them together( because
connectors may create resistence and cause RR to burn out)
Identifying wires is easy:

Honda Suzuki
3 white( alternator) 3 black
1 Red ( positive) 1 black/red
1 green( negative) 1 black/white

Let me know if you have anymore questions
PS I tried emailing you this but I got error message


Ar15 guy from CBR Forum wrote:
I noticed the GSXR RR doesn't just plug in correct? I may try your
mod since my RR is shot I think. I didn't search threw your post to
indepth yet but did you label which wires to solder where?

 

So it doesn't matter where the 3 white wires go? There is no special order?

Thanks man thats what I needed to know. My e-mail is sickmak90@yahoo.com

I got a 04 gsxr1000 rectifier off ebay. Should be here soon. Hoping it fixes my problem.

 

3 white wires are interchangeable