Hello there fellow rider friends.
I have a question: Has any of you have added a short throttle on your F2?
I would want to have stock throttle shorter for 1/3
Also heard that on Kaw Z750 you can use R6 throttle and makes it shorter for 30%
Any similar options for F2?

 

explain shorter?

 

Well, its this thing
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mk1-QUICK-ACTI...item564201643c
or
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Nr1-Prof-Quick...item5888b8c588

Question is, can you put another bikes throttle on F2, to get original throttle shorter?
Sorry, Im unable to write an essay on this topic, cause my english is quite rusty.

 

The R6 throttle grip assembly for 2006+ is 1/6 turn instead of the standard 1/4 turn found on most bikes. That makes it shorter or less turning and pressure on your wrist. I just ordered the part to do this on my F4I. It is suppose to be a little hard to get used to but once you get the hang of it, it is awesome, great for the track and no more problems with having to regrip the throttle. There is a write up on this forum that has step by step directions and pictures. I can't imagine that it wouldn't work for an F2.
For those interested the part number is Yamaha 2C0-26240-00-00. It is about 17.00.

 

Thanks man

 

Here is the link on this mod, complete with pictures.
http://www.1000rr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=70442

Tom

 

I installed the throttle mod on my 02 F4i and got a 3 hour ride in yesterday and wanted to say that it is a pretty nice mod. It wasn't hard to get used to and with only 600 cc's it didn't make the bike too jumpy. I did like not having to regrip my hand and less pressure on my wrist. I would bet that putting this on a liter bike would take alot more caution and getting use to.

Notes for the F4I install.
Save yourself the effort of thinking that you will be able to install this in just 30 minutes because you won't. Undo your right clip on because you are going to need the extra slack to remove the old tube and install the new one. Pay special attention to how the cables are routed, it is important. If you are one of those lucky people and can do it from the top only then great but for the rest of us who have to go to the throttle adjustment under the tank. This may help you.

To access the lower cables for adjustment
Remove your seat, 2 front and 2 back tank bolts and turn it sideways and rest the tank on your frame. (I took off my rear seat fairing because I was also installing a new tailight and I didn't want the tank resting on the fairing.) This will give you access to everything without trying to work on it with the tank propped up. Remove the air box, filter, unplug the sensor on top of air box, remove the 6 screws that hold in the tubes, unplug the 2 back air hoses and unplug the side connector on the left side, undo the air filter intake hoses from the front and remove it. (To put them back on clean them with WD40 and it will help them side back on) Take that off and now you have access to the throttle cables for adjustment.

Helpful tips - adjust your cable adjustment by the throttle housing at the grip make sure it is all the way in (you are trying to get all the slack you can). Make sure that you have the threaded elbow screwed all the way in. When you open the throttle housing you should be able to see what needs to be grinded off that gets in the way of the new larger tube. (Sorry, I didn't take any pictures.) This does not look like any of the pictures I saw from the other articles because that was for a 1000 RR. Go slow unless you want to buy another housing.

Last note, I had to do this twice because my throttle worked fine without the air box back on. Once I put everything back together the throttle would not return due to binding (just the air box resting on it). If you do not have enough slack in your cable it will bind with the slightest of pressure. Get all the slack you can from the bottom and then adjust it from the top at the grip housing. For some reason unknown to me my threaded cable at the housing was half way out therefore I had to disassemble everything, including disconnecting the starter/kill switch and turn my housing around several times to screw back in the threaded elbow. Once that was done and it was reassembled the throttle snaps back with force. Total time for me was between 2-3 hours. Hopefully you can do it quicker.

 

I know this is an oldie, but i recently put the R6 throttle on my F2, it's 1/6ths turn instead of the glacially slow 1/4 they come with. It's not a bolt on. I had to file down the throttle tube so it wouldn't bind inside of the kill/ignition/throttle tube mount. The cables are also not long enough to accommodate one. I had to file down the mount locations for the cables on the carbs as well as screw the adjustment all the way in. It's not hard, and it's straightforward, but it will take a bit of time and fiddling. Highly worth it at $22 or something stupid cheap too. It just makes throttle control much easier and putting power down on corner exit effortless. More control more bettah!