CBR 900RR 1993 - 1999 Honda CBR 900RR

I'm back with another build - 98 900rr

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  #11  
Old 01-05-2016, 07:21 PM
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Wow, what did you use for dye?

Covers are looking good too!
 
  #12  
Old 01-05-2016, 07:43 PM
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I just use the Duplicolor dye at any parts store. I've had very good luck with adhesion and have never (knock on wood) had any of it come off. I prep it by cleaning it with the stuff I use for paint jobs. I then scuff it a bit with a scotch bright (not a lot). I then clean it again. I fog the first coat, wait for it to flash and then spray for coverage.

On an unrelated note, what are your thoughts on cams? Now is certainly the time to think about it. I've read polar opposite thoughts on them. Some say they won't give you crap; others say they're the best thing since sliced bread. What I don't want to do is throw money at things that don't matter.

I'm currently on the hunt for:
- 900/929/954 header (not OEM)
- an APE chain tensioner (not performance)
- stage 1 jet kit
- 520 chain (I'm not sold on changing the ratio. My intent is to ride it to work a lot, which is 58 miles each way with most of it on the highway.)

What am I missing?
 

Last edited by hioc1098; 01-05-2016 at 07:48 PM.
  #13  
Old 01-06-2016, 05:43 PM
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You're missing the "viking mod". Check into it. As far as cams, it all depends on how you ride and what you want.
 
  #14  
Old 01-06-2016, 05:58 PM
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I see the viking mod and will read up on it. To be honest, I just want a nice bike I can go anywhere on. I don't street race and I rarely go to the track. I just like sport bikes more than cruisers. I figured as long as I was rebuilding I may as well improve things where I can. With that being said, I'm leaving the stock ratio gears in and I don't want to move the power up in the power band, so I'll probably forgo the cams.

I received my gasket set today and should have my manual tomorrow. I'm still looking for a good inside micrometer that's reasonably priced.

I finished the second part today. They're not quite twins, but I'm happy with the outcome.

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  #15  
Old 01-07-2016, 05:07 PM
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Holy crap! The rear pegs are so much worse to polish than the engine covers.

No pictures until I get even close to finishing. The good news is my fingers are really smooth now. Also, I got my manual in so I can start decoding bearings and rings.
 
  #16  
Old 01-08-2016, 12:09 PM
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Conrice,

It looks like you honed your cylinder walls (google search). Did you have any issues with the nikasil lining? I'm looking at using a ball hone; not the stones. I've read anywhere from 180 up to 320 grit. I'm looking at a 240 grit Silicon Carbide ball. Is that too rough in your opinion?
 
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Old 01-08-2016, 12:15 PM
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Disregard. I found this shortly after posting.

Flex-HoneŽ Blog- Brush Research Manufacturing's Company Blog: The Flex-HoneŽ for Nikasil Engine Cylinders

It looks like 240 is the right grit, but silicon carbide is for iron cylinders.

I'm looking for a 3" aluminum oxide ball.
 
  #18  
Old 01-08-2016, 01:04 PM
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I ordered the following today:
- piston ring compressor
- valve lapper set
- lapping compound
- valve spring compressor
- ring installer
- bore gauge
- Flex-Hone Ball

That should get me started. Once I check the cylinders and hone them, I'll order my bearings and rings and start cleaning things up. More to follow.
 
  #19  
Old 01-08-2016, 09:00 PM
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My cylinders were actually alusil - can't confirm on a 900, but mine weren't nikasil. Alusil is MUCH weaker than nikasil. Anyways, it didn't take, I made it about 250 miles before I lost all compression and puked oil into the air box.

It really hinges in what the cylinder looks like... If its egg shaped - it won't matter what you hone with. However, I'd bet with as fine a grit as possible - it gives you the most room for error.
 
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Old 01-08-2016, 11:39 PM
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I'll know the health of the cylinders shortly when my micrometer arrives. I'm fairly certain my cylinders are nikasil.

So, what does an insomniac do when he can't sleep? He works on his bike, of course. I found a different approach to polishing the rear sets. I got rid of the rough spots and deep scratches with 180-220 on my palm sander. I then stepped up to 320 on my palm sander. And then I ran 400 on my palm sander followed by hand sanding with 400. I did the same with 600. That was the end of the palm sander. At this point, I ran 800 and 1000 by hand. I then used medium grit 3M car polish (the stuff I use when I wet sand). I then went with the fine grit 3M car polish. Last, I applied autosol and buffed it as well. I buffed all of the polishes with my car buffer.

So, there you have it.

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Last edited by hioc1098; 01-11-2016 at 07:38 PM.


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