Okay, So I've tried other RR forums and havn't had any luck yet so I'm going to bring it to you guys and gals (though you probably don't have gals hardly)

So, 1994 CBR 900RR just had replaced the reg/rectifier and batery. Ride the bike ~60 miles to Eugene and the lights started to dim and blinkers quit working. When I turned the bike off to re-fuel I turned on the ignition and no indicator lights would come on. Got the bike home and I've noticed I can take the volt meter and test for power at the bat. (after charging) it is good. When I turn the ignition ON and test the bat (when bat is connected to bike) I get NO reading of power. Ignition off I get power even to the ignition, but turn it on and all power is lost.

Tested all fuses with ohm meter (I don't think I am missing any fuses) I checked the ones to the right of my gages. The main one by the battery. < I think that's about it. Fuses are all fine. Checked all the grounds I could find they all test fine and have been cleaned ohms flow great through the main ground wires. Stator tests fine. I have til the 19th to figure this out. then it's going in to the shop.

In the picture I've attempted to upload it shows the two points I don't get continuity between that I think I should????

[IMG]local://upfiles/11094/BA25C8B581FC4877AA8AC31ED74A6D9D.jpg[/IMG]

 

Even when you try to start the bike?

--Chris

 

That's the placement of the starter relay. One bolt hooks to the battery and the other to the starter. You should only be getting power on one side, then there should be power on both sides after pressing the "start" switch.

Have you checked the terminals to the ignition? you should check if you're getting power to the ignition switch and out of the ignition switch when the ignition is turned to "on".

If you're checking connectivity to and from the ignition, ground one side of the Ohm reader or just a simple light meter (a metal tipped pen with a light bulb inside) to see if you're getting juice to the ignition switch and out of it. Place the 2 wires back on and trouble shoot the ignition.

1. Check where the Starter relay is, underneath it, you will find four smaller wires. Make sure you have power on all four wires by using the needle light meter. Place one side on the frame/motor for ground and the other on the wire. The light should light up to show connectivity.)


If you have power on all four wires:

1. Disconnect the ignition switch cable plug underneath the ignition. Place the needle tip on the terminal coming from the frame colored RED - place the other on the frame or motor to ground. You should be getting power here.

2. Put the ignition on the "ON", plug the ignition switch back on and place the needle tip on the Black/Red wire. You should have power when the key is "ON" and should turn off when place on the "OFF"

If you have power on the Black/Red when "ON":

3. Leave the ignition on "ON" Check the fuse in the fuse box, the second fuse 10A is for the ignition. Place one of the light meter needle on the ends while the grounding one side(little holes on the fuse are to place the tips to see if you're getting juice through the fuse.

If you have power coming and leaving the fuse:

4. Take the fuse panel off the upper fairing while keeping the wires connected. Flip the unit over and place the needle of the light meter on the wires for that fuse. (checks if you're getting power beyond the fuse.) Always ground one side.

If everything else until here is fine, reply back to this post and I'll write the next parts to check.

 

I had to add on a correction on the Starter relay plug wires. You should have power on the R/W (Red/White) and the R (RED) wires. These two give power constantly.

 

Right, that's exactly what I just found. Yeah I have power on Red and Red/White. Other info- when I try to touch the RED and RED/BLACK ignition wires together to "hot wire" it, it still has no power.

The RED ignition switch wire has power at OFF, but NOT at ON. --If ignition is in "on" no wires have power at all.



So uh, what now?

[IMG]local://upfiles/11094/BF0D4BE49D364427BF5FD99C405AD740.jpg[/IMG]

 

So just bypass the ignition to test if your bike will run. All you need to do is jumper the wires to the following:

CONNECT ALL 3 together, then press the "Start" button

 

wait a sec... When you turn your switch on ON you lose power on ALL wires?
That means you may have a Load problem somewhere....

 

Right, which is why I'm thinking a wire's grounded out somewhere? or some mess like that. [sm=wtf.gif]

 

Few... I just finished reading your post on RR Frms (I need not post other sites because I don't want to be stepping on any toes.)

Since I have no Scanner to give you a copy of the sections off my 1993-1994 manual, I'm going to have to type it all [:'(]

We'll start with the Leakage Test - This tests how much your battery is leaking it's charge

Turn the ignition switch off, and disconnect the ground (-) cable from the battery.

Connect the ammeter(amp-meter) (+) probe to the ground cable that you just disconnected from the battery and the (-)Negative probe from the ammeter to the (-)Negative post of the battery.

Note:
-When measuring the current using a tester, set it to a high range, then bring the range down to an appropriate level. Current flow larger than the range selected may blow out the fuse in the tester.

-While measuring the current, do not turn the ignition switch ON, a sudden surge may blow out the fuse in the tester.

Specific Current leakage: 0.1 mA max.
If a current leakage exceeds the specific value, a shortened curcuit is likely.

 

you want to just talk on the phone?... might be faster...