From my experience, with our gen of bikes, having the manifold boots tight and the air box fitted properly is 95% of the air battle. Having all the other hoses connected properly (by the diagram on the air box) is the other 5%. That's assuming those hoses are in ok shape.
From there on out, it's making sure the fuel/air is mixed properly.

 

Basically once I get the box sealed back up nice and tight I'm left with the predicament of trying to get the ram air system back to spec (under 12 mph hoses, solenoid) without fairings [street fighter] or a speedometer to send the signals telling the solenoids to open...


Sounds tricky..

 

When you are talking street fighter, that's where Mr. Conrice shines. Maybe he can chime in on that.

 

That would be fantastic. I have a few questions for him in that case.

 

https://cbrforum.com/forum/street-fi...-122543/page4/

Post #33


This is another good thread to read - Colorado_steve links it in his thread as well.
http://www.customfighters.com/forums...ad.php?t=31694

Yeah, you'll need to address it. Everyone who has done an F3 fighter (really anyone who has swapped/deleted gauges) runs into this issue. But it seems like it's an easy fix for the most part.










But it's not a PAIR system. <- That is not going to affect your performance. It gets rid of more hoses, more valves, and makes the bike more simple. PLUS, if you ever want to dyno-tune your bike, you can't run a PAIR because it'll throw off your o2 readings for tuning.


This is also a good thread. It discusses EVERYTHING being taken out - and lets be honest - you're figher-ing 'er out - get rid of all of it!
http://www.fireblades.org/forums/hon...r-removal.html

 

I have seen those threads in my recent searches but thanks a ton for the info dump.

. So I didn't give much of a backstory on the bike all of the solenoids, EVAP canisters, Gauges and additional hoses are already gone off of the bike and have been for some time. But I never rode the bike or any f3 for that matter that did have this system in place. I don't honestly know if my bike is running with the full amount of power it should have more or less. I have read a lot of stuff on the pink wire ground but none that really explain whether that is after they removed both the Gauges AND the solenoids or whether that have just removed the Gauges and are grounding that wire to keep the solenoids open?

 

If everything is correctly deleted - it shouldn't cause any running problems whatsoever. The pink-wire-thing is to ground the solenoid and cause it to stay open, but if you simply delete everything, all of your air just comes through your ram air ducts. The jet kits say to ground the solenoid open anyway. In this case bypass = deleting it. The only difference is whether or not the solenoid still resides under the tank

This stuff was causing drivability issues with throttle responsiveness. If its all deleted, you should be good to go. Seal up the airbox, make sure your air/fuel mix is good and that bike should rip. It should still have about 90-95 hp, so the bike should be quite fast.

 

One other thing as far it pertains to your air leak concerns is to insure the vacuum ports on the carbs are plugged tight. #1 should have a screw. #2-4 has a little rubber nipple thingy that plugs in. If those aren't in there, you will be way off.

 

Cool, much appreciated knowledge. Everything has been deleted properly to the best of my knowledge, the bike is most certainly fast. I haven't been riding her much recently due to my new toy 03' z1000 taking up all of daily fun, so of course riding the f3 will feel much less adrenaline seeking but I am looking to alter the gearing a little once I wear this sprocket and chain out. My seal for the airbox base is at the dealership. I'll pick that up tomorrow and install the new base and seal, I managed to come across a nos seal for the cover luckily so I won't need any spline but thanks for the DIY advice conrice. My housing and switch should be popping in any day now so I'll do a write up as long as I don't run into any issues. I got my adjustable levers and new to me oem perch on this morning, they feel great.

 

I forgot to mention my recent idiot moment..

I didn't think anything of the difference between the FI and carburetion throttle body so for those who are considering the r6 throttle mod; don't be like me and think "why modify anything with the housing/tube and just get the oem housing & cables from that bike so it will be right at home how it was designed to function" stop yourself from even searching for them. In case you didn't know or didn't bother to think of it; the r6 uses a fly by wire system meaning the cables do not mount directly into the throttle bodies, they mount to a servo motor from which the servo does the rest of work. So save yourself the money and do not buy the r6 housing to make things easier.