F3 doesn't want to start
#21
I'll check my manual .
Tdc then the cam lobes should point upwards .cylinders 1 and 4
check the inlet cams first then exhaust cams .then rotate crankshaft so I can do 2 and 3 cylinders
.once u done that rotate the crankshaft before u tighten everything back up just to make sure nothings binding
Tdc then the cam lobes should point upwards .cylinders 1 and 4
check the inlet cams first then exhaust cams .then rotate crankshaft so I can do 2 and 3 cylinders
.once u done that rotate the crankshaft before u tighten everything back up just to make sure nothings binding
Ok when I'm at tdc cylinders 1 and 4 should have the cam lobes facing up for both in and ex, correct? Just making sure I got that right.
Any idea where I can get a valve cover gasket? Or could I reuse my old one? Or can I Hondabond it?
#22
Even with me spraying ether in it still has nothing. I've got to be missing compression because after doing a bit of googling I found out the bike's ignition timing can't be changed but my my valves could be doing some wonky things which would explain the it not starting whether it be a stuck valve or the one of the cams jumping some teeth once upon a time. So I know how to get in to the valves and adjust them but not how to check if the have jumped a tooth, would be as easy as lining up the in and ex marks on the cams or am I messing more?
O indentations on the camshafts sprockets ..they need to be both at the top but slightly towards each other when at TDC
and yeah a bead of rtv should sort the gasket
#23
#24
So I finally got to taking the valve cover off and I took pictures rather than me trying to explain what I saw. First I wanted to show that I'm at TDC. Next is the cams and there timing marks. Finally the position of the cam lobes on the side opposite of the chain. If you were seating in the seat like normal and holding the bars it would be the left.
Just to be safe, if those images didn't work here will be the link to the imgur album. Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
While I was turning the motor over to TDC I saw that the Valve Cam Gears had EX and In on both like the intake cam had an EX mark on it too the Exhaust Cam had an In mark too. I"m guess that's for if you replace the cam gears you can use them on either cam since it has both marks.
I was going to check valve gap but I had to borrow a friends gapper and it only goes down to .010 inch or .254mm and the guide calls for .16mm gap so I have a metric gapper on its way.
Just to be safe, if those images didn't work here will be the link to the imgur album. Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
While I was turning the motor over to TDC I saw that the Valve Cam Gears had EX and In on both like the intake cam had an EX mark on it too the Exhaust Cam had an In mark too. I"m guess that's for if you replace the cam gears you can use them on either cam since it has both marks.
I was going to check valve gap but I had to borrow a friends gapper and it only goes down to .010 inch or .254mm and the guide calls for .16mm gap so I have a metric gapper on its way.
Last edited by LemonyGuy; 03-03-2017 at 11:55 AM.
#26
Not sure when the last time it ran was but it had reg for last year, it was filled with some regular gas, do I need premium gas? carbs gas looks fine, I cleaned the carbs not long ago. Didn't check the spark plug gap when i check sparked but could re gap them if needed.
Last edited by Daniel Lunt; 03-05-2017 at 08:35 PM.
#27
Not sure when the last time it ran was but it had reg for last year, it was filled with some regular gas, do I need premium gas? carbs gas looks fine, I cleaned the carbs not long ago. Didn't check the spark plug gap when i check sparked but could re gap them if needed.
#28
Not sure when the last time it ran was but it had reg for last year, it was filled with some regular gas, do I need premium gas? carbs gas looks fine, I cleaned the carbs not long ago. Didn't check the spark plug gap when i check sparked but could re gap them if needed.
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02-19-2014 07:38 PM