I picked up a '92 F2 a few days ago, from craigslist.
It's a salvaged title, but the frame seems ok.
High mileage, at 50k.
I just wanted a project, and this happened to be in my price range.
This is when I first got it home.


I was told it runs, has a high idle at times, a frozen CCT, and it needs a new rear tire. Oh, It also has a straight pipe for exhaust.
After seeing that and being told he just replaced the air filter, I figured one possible reason for any high idle.

I haven't owned a bike in over a year, and even then I have less than a years worth of riding experience. So I have not test rode it myself.
It runs, it stops, it changes gears. That's about the extent of my knowledge.

Right now, I just want to strip it down. Completely. Just for shiggles.
I plant to remove everything from the frame, look it all over, open up the motor, inspect the bearings, rods, pistons etc.
I've rebuilt car motors, but never a motorcycle motor. I'm not worried though, and I really want to do it just for the fun of it.
Plus It needs some TLC.

There is a decent oil leak somewhere around the bottom of the motor, even when sitting. Gasket, maybe a seal. Plus a bunch of JB weld on a cover


I have no current plans regarding what I will do about fairings, or the lack of.
For now, this is just a strip and inspect project.

 

So after picking up a rear swingarm stand from harborfreight, I decided to start removing something, even though it's late at night, cold, rainy, and I don't even have any towels or other bits and ends for working on this yet.

So I grabbed a milk job and emptied the oil. Removed battery. Removed gas tank. And took a few pics along the way.




Zip tied headlight, FTW


After getting the tank off, I noticed a slight head scratcher.

Airbox has a gap all the way around.

Turns out the air filter was not seated properly.

The air box wasn't as bad as it could have been, and the stacks seemed ok.
Peering into the carbs, it seems "ok" so far as well.
I haven't decided what will be done about the carbs. Hopefully just a cleaning and a tune. Won't know until I take them out, hopefully tomorrow.


That's it for today. I have no life, so it shouldn't take too long to tear it all down.
No idea if it will all go back together though.

 

Sweet, looks like a fun winter project.

lmao...that ain't nothin.

I wouldn't worry about the motor internals unless you see actual damage to the block. I picked up a couple that had stator cover damage and later found the starter idler gear inside was broken. That's bad, but if your damage is limited to just the cover, put a new one on and call it good. Put a manual CCT in, clean the carbs good, a good battery and almost always they will fire up and purr like a kitten.

 

^ ditto. Don't open the engine unless you absolutely have to. If the blocks are fine just replace the cracked covers. Hanging revs is usually caused by a vacuum leak.

 

I second that. I've opened my engine without having to and I am beginning to think that was a bad idea .

 

I know it sounds bad, but honestly, I REALLY want to at least open up the motor a tad. At least I'm going to inspect valve clearance and rod/main bearings.
As long as those are ok, then I won't go any further. Maybe.
I kind of miss tinkering on motors.
But we shall see as I get further along.

 

Checking the valve clearance would be a good idea. At 50k they'll probably still be in spec, if nobody has messed with the motor. I didn't have to adjust any of mine until later.

Stay away from the rods and main bearings. Put down the tools and step away from the bike.

You're just asking to get yourself into trouble for no reason. There's enough other things that bike need, don't mess with stuff that ain't broken. If you really want to tinker with an F2 motor, go find a broken one for sale. Then you can tinker to your hearts content AND you'll have spare parts if you need them.

 

On one hand, I agree. I shouldn't do it.
On the other hand.....it's hard to fight the urge.
I know I will pull the pan off the bottom, and visually inspect. Depending on what I find, I may just leave it alone.

I didn't do much exciting to it today. I actually went and bought a few more basic tools and some supplies. I gave away all my mechanic tools when I moved.
Nothing fancy, but I do miss a few of them, like my torque wrench.
Some home depot basics here.


I had to organize and clean up the garage too. Filled my truck with a bunch of old carpet and stuff that was sitting around, taking up space.

I did get to remove the carb bank though.


Had some help.


All the vacuum piston diaphragms look good, as do the needles. At least I think so, but then this is my first time seeing some in person.




The ends look fairly pointy and stuff. The diaphragms are nice and pliable.
I took them out and set them aside. I'm in the process of cleaning out the exterior of the carbs.


Only inspected one of these. Again, seems to be fine. Nothing obvious to me anyways.

The only thing I've found off about the carbs was what seems to be a vacuum hose plugged with a screw.
You can also see it in the pic with my daughter working on the carb.
I didn't think to get a better pic of it. I also can't make out what it would be from the diagram in the manual.
But if that is the worst thing I'm going to find on the carb, then I won't complain.

I decided to finally look over the chain and sprockets. I'm going to be picking up a new rear tire soon, so I wanted to see if a new chain might be in need.




The chain says RK 530. Front Sprocket says 520 and Japan. Didn't see a brand name. But I have a lot of grime to remove from the rear.
The swingarm has a regina chain decal.
So, someone maybe did a 520 conversion at some point. Then someone else changed the chain, but not the sprocket?
I'm going to look into that..

The current tires are Michelin power road 2ct. Which is interesting, because that was what I decided on getting as a replacement, before even paying attention to what it had currently.

That is it for today. Hopefully something more interesting tomorrow.

 

A new chain and sprocket set will be ordered!
Seems both sprockets are likely 520. After looking at the pic of my chain on rear sprocket, you can notice a gap, side to side, of the teeth in the chain.
I finally found a reference pic of how that should not be.


Plus read up on it.

I'm going to order new 530 kit.

 

Yeah, don't use 520 sprockets with a 530 chain. Not a great idea. Just get a nice new set of 530 stuff and you're good. 520 isn't going to buy you much unless your racing. You're better off just getting a 530 with an extra tooth or so. I personally hate clip links. I've just see way to many come off. I've seen chains go through the backs of engines. Get a rivet master, take the extra minute to rivet it. Just one less thing to leave you stranded at the worst time.

Not all lines from the carbs and such need to be plugged. Some are suppose to vent. Some people don't get this and will do stupid **** like hook the gas cap drain to the float bowl vent. Next time it rains, your carbs fill with water. Then the engine hydrolocks and I end up getting a call asking 'why doesn't my bike start'.

I so wish I could get my daughter to help me. But she doesn't like getting 'dirty'.