'92 Stripper Project
#111
05-19-2015, 02:26 AM
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Out of curiosity I decided to measure the damaged crank journal with my calipers.
It has measurable differences between it and the other 3.
Plus I found some material "welded" to the side, where either crank or bearing material was wedged between the crank and the rod cap.
This crank is useless.
It has measurable differences between it and the other 3.
Plus I found some material "welded" to the side, where either crank or bearing material was wedged between the crank and the rod cap.
This crank is useless.
#112
05-19-2015, 10:35 AM
Out of curiosity I decided to measure the damaged crank journal with my calipers.
It has measurable differences between it and the other 3.
Plus I found some material "welded" to the side, where either crank or bearing material was wedged between the crank and the rod cap.
This crank is useless.
It has measurable differences between it and the other 3.
Plus I found some material "welded" to the side, where either crank or bearing material was wedged between the crank and the rod cap.
This crank is useless.
#113
05-19-2015, 10:51 AM
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#114
05-19-2015, 04:02 PM
Anyway, cranks can be welded and reground too. Shops can do wicked cool stuff. Best advice would come from them. Might not be worth the money to have it done.
You could also buy a good used crank too. Might be the cheaper option. Depends on what your goal is. I've got 2 in my basement from F2's. I think they are the same as F3's, but not 100% sure.
#115
05-19-2015, 04:30 PM
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Honda probably doesn't offer an oversized bearing, but Honda doesn't make the bearings. They come from some OEM. Just like wheel bearings. The OEM offer lots more sizes than the factories.
Anyway, cranks can be welded and reground too. Shops can do wicked cool stuff. Best advice would come from them. Might not be worth the money to have it done.
You could also buy a good used crank too. Might be the cheaper option. Depends on what your goal is. I've got 2 in my basement from F2's. I think they are the same as F3's, but not 100% sure.
Anyway, cranks can be welded and reground too. Shops can do wicked cool stuff. Best advice would come from them. Might not be worth the money to have it done.
You could also buy a good used crank too. Might be the cheaper option. Depends on what your goal is. I've got 2 in my basement from F2's. I think they are the same as F3's, but not 100% sure.
I did look up prices for grinding cranks and repairs, it's cost prohibitive for my purposes. I'm going to remove the other crank and see what it looks like, then take both to a local machine shop.
When I measured the journal some of the readings were close to spec, some were too low, almost like it was out of round in comparison to the others.
But I'm using cheap digital calipers.
As far as F2 and F3 cranks, here is a quote from a previous post I made in the F3 section.
Out of curiosity I decided to see what the differences between the f2 and f3 crank are.
Relatively speaking, it's not much. I had wondered what the chances of using my f2 crank in the f3 motor would be.
Sorry for the PDF tool showing over the f3 manual.
The stroke is the same.
The standard tolerances are VERY close, where the service limits are exactly the same.
The biggest difference is the connecting rod big end clearance, although again, the service limit is the same.
The crank bearing chart is close.
If you first look at the O.D and I.D codes for both bikes, you see they are very on clearances. Like .008 compared to .007.
But it's the bearings where the differences show the most.
F2 brown is barely an F3 pink.
But it is the ROD bearings where it all goes up in flames.
Where it might have been possible to find the right combo of crank bearings to put the f2 crank in the f3 case, I don't think one could find the right rod bearings to make that work.
Although, f2 crank AND f2 rods could possibly be done. But you would want to keep f3 pistons because of the different compression. Plus the f3 rods and pistons are lighter, aren't they?
Either way, that adds on an another entire level of reasons to not bother.
I figured I would post the info.
I'm not a mechanic or machinist, so I'm really only guessing :P
Relatively speaking, it's not much. I had wondered what the chances of using my f2 crank in the f3 motor would be.
Sorry for the PDF tool showing over the f3 manual.
The stroke is the same.
The standard tolerances are VERY close, where the service limits are exactly the same.
The biggest difference is the connecting rod big end clearance, although again, the service limit is the same.
The crank bearing chart is close.
If you first look at the O.D and I.D codes for both bikes, you see they are very on clearances. Like .008 compared to .007.
But it's the bearings where the differences show the most.
F2 brown is barely an F3 pink.
But it is the ROD bearings where it all goes up in flames.
Where it might have been possible to find the right combo of crank bearings to put the f2 crank in the f3 case, I don't think one could find the right rod bearings to make that work.
Although, f2 crank AND f2 rods could possibly be done. But you would want to keep f3 pistons because of the different compression. Plus the f3 rods and pistons are lighter, aren't they?
Either way, that adds on an another entire level of reasons to not bother.
I figured I would post the info.
I'm not a mechanic or machinist, so I'm really only guessing :P
#116
05-19-2015, 07:46 PM
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#117
05-19-2015, 09:08 PM
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I pulled the thrown rod f3 motor over to my workbench, prepared to strip it.
I really haven't paid much attention to it. I noticed, through the hole, that the motor was still full of oil. That's when my eyes fell on this.
I forgot I had actually seen the damage before. Guess I won't be using this crank either!
It sucks to have almost all the parts for a running motor and being just one off.
But if I used a different crank, I would need all new bearings. Plus still need a gasket kit. Eventually, I will build a fresh motor, but I've got 3 bikes and two need to be sold.
Guess I'm going to throw the cases, pistons and other good parts on ebay for less than the competitors and see what happens.
I really haven't paid much attention to it. I noticed, through the hole, that the motor was still full of oil. That's when my eyes fell on this.
I forgot I had actually seen the damage before. Guess I won't be using this crank either!
It sucks to have almost all the parts for a running motor and being just one off.
But if I used a different crank, I would need all new bearings. Plus still need a gasket kit. Eventually, I will build a fresh motor, but I've got 3 bikes and two need to be sold.
Guess I'm going to throw the cases, pistons and other good parts on ebay for less than the competitors and see what happens.
#118
05-19-2015, 10:44 PM
Oh yeah, those rims are killer. I've always liked orange. I'm still trying to figure out what color my XX should be..
#119
05-19-2015, 11:12 PM
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According to the manual, they both have a 65mm bore and 45.2mm stroke.
Last edited by Existenz_is; 05-19-2015 at 11:22 PM.
#120
06-04-2015, 02:02 AM
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Not much of an update for the CBR. I hand mounted the front shinko to the newly coated wheel, but don't seem to have a pic yet. Been waiting on money to get rear mounted professionally.
In the mean time I've been working on the 94 rf600r and riding my 97 yzf. I picked it up first week of may.
Has micron exhaust system, barnett clutch disc, racetech springs and was one owner.
I've gone on 3 trips, each over 350 miles.
Heres the last trip.
Mt. St. Helens in the back.
But this happened...
Condoms?
Yep.
This pic was taken after riding 30 miles on twisties to get to the town to eat lunch.
I'm staring at my hands. It was a major pain to shift...
I then had to RIDE 170 miles home, luckily on highway, so little shifting.
It was interesting trying to use blinkers and shift with limited use of my left hand.
I wasn't the only one to wipe out either.
Luckily it was really minor. Just upset at damaging such a clean bike.
I wasn't going fast, just panicked in a corner, hit some muck on the edge and wiped out. Newb move.
It's also difficult for me to work on the bikes now :P
Luckily most of what I have left is small, other than needing to torque wheels and such.
Thumb has a fractured metacarpal with subluxation...or something.
Was told it might need to be "pinned".
No riding for 3-6 weeks at this point.
In the mean time I've been working on the 94 rf600r and riding my 97 yzf. I picked it up first week of may.
Has micron exhaust system, barnett clutch disc, racetech springs and was one owner.
I've gone on 3 trips, each over 350 miles.
Heres the last trip.
Mt. St. Helens in the back.
But this happened...
Condoms?
Yep.
This pic was taken after riding 30 miles on twisties to get to the town to eat lunch.
I'm staring at my hands. It was a major pain to shift...
I then had to RIDE 170 miles home, luckily on highway, so little shifting.
It was interesting trying to use blinkers and shift with limited use of my left hand.
I wasn't the only one to wipe out either.
Luckily it was really minor. Just upset at damaging such a clean bike.
I wasn't going fast, just panicked in a corner, hit some muck on the edge and wiped out. Newb move.
It's also difficult for me to work on the bikes now :P
Luckily most of what I have left is small, other than needing to torque wheels and such.
Thumb has a fractured metacarpal with subluxation...or something.
Was told it might need to be "pinned".
No riding for 3-6 weeks at this point.
Last edited by Existenz_is; 06-04-2015 at 02:04 AM.