Sounds much better. Still a little flutter there but that may be your pipe. Let us know how the ride goes.

 

Well a message to the others on the forum.. When Dennis talks, you listen!

Took it for a little ride and it revs free and strong through the whole upper rev range. Low end is a bit jerky until the needles start to lift then it smoothens out and fires me at the horizon! I'm thinking this is because after opening the carbs 10 times and fiddling with all the settings they are most likely well out of sync!! The brass tubes are on the way from USA and I'll sync them as soon as they arrive..

I'm so happy it was super rich, as there was no risk of burning pistons and valves by the last owner.. Im now at dynojet stage 1 with all dynojet recommended settings and jets/needles so i think im not too lean. I also closed all the drilled holes in the air box. There a few little rattles and taps coming from the motor which I think is the valves, by damn this bike was not loved. I will do a valve service at the beginning of the season.. I just wanted to make sure the motor had it in it to be good, and now she has shown me that its super strong!! So I will be splashing the cash on it and getting it as healthy as possible.

Thanks Dennis for persisting and offering solid advice! I'm sure I'll be back on here with other issues and hope to offer my advice to others as well.

Keep the rubber side down all!

 

Thanks for the positive comment. It's taken years for me to feel like I get this, and to be honest I still am surprised at times.

It's really hard to help with tuning on the web. Once you posted videos that helped a lot because the sound tells a story.

These carbs are very difficult to clean and set up properly. Most people don't get them clean. That's the first biggest problem. In your case mods came into play and that throws a wrench in the works.

You might want to try to drop those needles a notch to see if that helps the flutter. That sounds like it's transition from pilot to mains so probably just a little too much fuel since the Dyno Kit is in there.

 

I totally forgot these needles are adjustable! And I like playing with the needles cause u don't run the risk of fuel leaks afterwards lol.

Do you think I might be better off with the original needles? All the intake is original now just got a sporty end can with a pretty aggressive db killer in it.

 

If you have the Dyno Jets in there I wouldn't change the needles. They are matched.

 

Ok cool. I will have a look at dropping the needles a notch.. i did notice that number 3 header takes longer to warm up on idle. i think this is due to the very messed up sync between them, especially as i removed the outside 2 carbs to change the o rings in the fuel intake pipes, i disturbed the sync screws and the little spring, maybe they went back slightly different. Hurry up mr postman with my brass tubes!!

 

You can bench sync them with a feeler gauge in each butterfly. I do this to make sure the idle screw has enough travel. This gets them very close and then just check them with gauges.