For the 600F carb experts...
#1
For the 600F carb experts...
Having just been given an estimate of about $800 to $1200 to service my carbs (at a Honda dealer of course) I am looking to do the carbs on my bike on my own ;-) I have found excellent directions and great tips in this forum - my plan is to buy a full set of used, not jetted carbs...and get those cleaned and serviced, then swap them onto my bike - I found a decent set on eBay, but the seller is not sure what year these are from - I have an 89 and would think that carbs are the same for 87 to 89? Can any of you carb experts take a look at his link... maybe you can tell if these are the correct ones for 89 model? My vote is yes... but I wanted to ask some opinions here.
http://tinyurl.com/hurricane-carb
THANKS!
http://tinyurl.com/hurricane-carb
THANKS!
#2
Hello. I just did the carbs on my 1989 CBR. Those in the link look like they are for 87-90, so your good.
It is actually not as hard so you it seems to do the carbs. After a bottle of carb cleaner ($3) and air-in-a-can ($7) I got my carbs cleaned and back in. Then I had to get a used fuel pump and that was $40. so in total I spent $50 to re-do my carbs and now i'm about to spend $35 on a carb-flow-meter (http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=572) to synchronize my carbs. So definitely do it yourself if you are able to pull them out and know your way around a screw driver.
Good luck.
It is actually not as hard so you it seems to do the carbs. After a bottle of carb cleaner ($3) and air-in-a-can ($7) I got my carbs cleaned and back in. Then I had to get a used fuel pump and that was $40. so in total I spent $50 to re-do my carbs and now i'm about to spend $35 on a carb-flow-meter (http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=572) to synchronize my carbs. So definitely do it yourself if you are able to pull them out and know your way around a screw driver.
Good luck.
#3
#4
Thanks guys.. I did ask the seller to let me know if there were any part #s on the body so I could reference it against mine or the OEM microfiche. As for the emissions, I did not even think of that. My bike was purchased new in NY state and I am the second owner.... I would imagine that it does not have the extra emissions tubing, etc. Is there some way to tell if they do or don't have the emissions features?
And WISH, I took a look at the air flow meter you posted the link for... How does that work? You just adjust each carb one at a time? I thought that the manometer with four hoses was needed so that air flow could be regulated in relation to the whole set of carbs, and not adjusted one at time? I am still learning about all of this stuff. Thanks for your reply.... I am hoping that any carbs I buy will be okay after being stored dry for a long period of time, but I can re-use the good rubber boots and seals from my carbs I suppose.
And WISH, I took a look at the air flow meter you posted the link for... How does that work? You just adjust each carb one at a time? I thought that the manometer with four hoses was needed so that air flow could be regulated in relation to the whole set of carbs, and not adjusted one at time? I am still learning about all of this stuff. Thanks for your reply.... I am hoping that any carbs I buy will be okay after being stored dry for a long period of time, but I can re-use the good rubber boots and seals from my carbs I suppose.
#5
i was the one who suggested that too to wish.
i have used it to sync my carbs and it works great. yes you can only adjust one carb at a time. but its pretty simple to use, you just hold it up to the opening of the carb, take a reading and adjust.
if your bike has emissions equipment, it will have a box thing by the header with tubes going into they cyclinder head, and some more stuff connected to the carbs. if you dont see a box and a bunch of tubing up front you dont have emissions. even if the carbs are set up for emissions, it would be pretty easy to cap off the ports.
i have used it to sync my carbs and it works great. yes you can only adjust one carb at a time. but its pretty simple to use, you just hold it up to the opening of the carb, take a reading and adjust.
if your bike has emissions equipment, it will have a box thing by the header with tubes going into they cyclinder head, and some more stuff connected to the carbs. if you dont see a box and a bunch of tubing up front you dont have emissions. even if the carbs are set up for emissions, it would be pretty easy to cap off the ports.
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