When I got hit last year, the master cylinder cover was scraped off.
I bought the entire clutch unit (master+slave+line).

I did not want to replace the gasket on the motor for the slave cylinder, so I just untightened the banjo fitting on both master cylinders(the new and old), and swapped them.
I tightened the banjo fitting with the old washers EXTREMELY tight with a 1/2" ratchet, but have no pressure.

I pumped the lever about 200+ times and untightened the bleeder screw and had no pressure coming out.

I bought some brake fluid that exceeded dot3/dot4 standards for the bike that is safe for both systems to use and filled the reservoir close to the top and tightened the top very well.

As a test, I untightened the banjo fitting on the master cylinder to make sure it was pushing pressure, and there was a little fluid that seeped through when the bolt was a little loose.

Any ideas? Has anyone ever done this? I know it says to replace the sealing washers on both sides of the master cylinder fitting, but where do I get those, and has anyone ever done this before without replacing them?
Thanks
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Update: After an hour searching at a local pepboys with an assistant, I bought some generic "HELP!" brand "brake hose bolt washers". They are copper, and is a pack that contains 2 washers of each size:
10.3mm x 16.91mm x 1.2mm
7/16" x 11/16" x 1/32"
25/64" x 5/8" x 1/16"
25/64" x 37/64" x 1/32"

Hopefully one fits, but I do know the old washers are not copper, so I am not sure if this is going to work...
Anyone know the banjo bolt torque spec? I've searched the entire manual, even in the addendum, and it doesn't list one...I alternatively tried looking for the brake banjo nut torque to perhaps try that, but it is not listed either...weird.

 

When the cover got scraped off did the internal pushrod survive ? Bent ?
Best way to do a clutch or brakes is use a non return valve or a vacuum pump.
It sounds like you may have air bubbles...................

Any ideas? Has anyone ever done this? I know it says to replace the sealing washers on both sides of the master cylinder fitting, but where do I get those, and has anyone ever done this before without replacing them?

I've done mine a few times and never replaced the washers. No leaks.

 

I ended up fixing it! I spent about 2 hours more trying to figure it out!
For some reason I guess the master kept getting air back into it, so I did this:

1) Made sure master was FULL.
2) Loosened banjo bolt on master. Banjo bolt on slaved tightened, bleed screw barely loose.
3) Disconnected master from handle bar, and turned the master so the hole for the banjo bolt is upright (pointing to ceiling), and the lever and pointing at the ground.
4) I then wrapped a towel around the outside of the hole to prevent any fluid spillage.
5) I put my finger over the hole, to at first hold the pressure, but lifted it very little as I gently pushed the lever to about 80%~.
6) As the lever was still down, I put my finger completely over the hole again to seal it.
7) Repeating step 5 & 6 forced the air out out of the master.
8) With only fluid coming out of the master, and the master still in the same position, I took the banjo fitting and snugged it to the master to make sure there was no air in it.

THE REASON I WAS HAVING PROBLEMS. My hydraulic line was dry, so every time I would bleed the master and hook it back up to the banjo fitting, air would get back to the master, and I could not effectively fill the system like that. Here is where I used my line lock.

9) I put the line lock on the rubber line closest to the banjo fitting on the master. This effectively cut off the rest of the system from the master but a small 3 inch portion.
10) I proceeded to then hook the master back up to the handle bar for leverage.
11) I pumped the master 80% down about 3-5times, and barely unloosened the banjo bolt to allow air in that small portion of the system out.
12) I repeated step 11 until the master was COMPLETELY FIRM, and could not move the lever AT ALL from a resting position.
13) Then one all the air was out of that small line, I proceeded make sure the bleed screw on the slave was BARELY loose so it would only allow a trickle of fluid out, not a stream once you build a pressure.

REMEMBER TO KEEP CHECKING YOUR MASTER FLUID LEVEL FROM THIS POINT ON. IF IT GETS LOW, YOU WILL HAVE TO PROBABLY START OVER.
Here is how I filled the system:
14) With the banjo bolt tightened, and the air out of that little portion of the system, I then squeezed on the clutch lever gently and slowly unloosened my line lock to where fluid would start being pushed through the system and could tell by the lever going down slowly. One I got to about 80% down, I tightened the line lock WHILE STILL HOLDING THE lever! DO NOT LET IT RETURN BEFORE U tightened the line lock! A few times air got back to the master, so I had to repeat steps 11&12. No big deal.
15) I keep doing step 14 until I seen a little trickle coming out of the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder.
16) Once the fluid was a small consistent stream, I closed the bleeder screw while the master was pumping fluid into the system (me holding the lever), and it should stop the lever from going down anymore.
17) I then removed my line lock, and bled the system normally. I pumped about 3-5 times until I felt pressure, and let a nice long stream of fluid come out! It went about 4feet across the room almost hit my dad's 78 KZ1000 >_>.... good thing it is covered up! LoL

I had to fill the master probably 2 times throughout this process and I am glad there is clean fluid throughout the entire system, it feels better than before the bike was wrecked =). My bike now drives in a straight line, but I have a wobbly front rim and no front rotors. My seat also doesnt fit since the seat rail is bent. I may need a new frame >_>.

 

Fixed - minor irritation dealt with. If it persists I'll cook his hard drive...........banned for life in the mean time.....