Big24, I'd say it's a long shot to find a alternator cover w/windings for your '93 in Dallas. Partzilla has them for $255 new. I wouldn't recommend buying a used one due to insulation breakdown from heat on a part 22 years old.

Have you confirmed it's actually dead, and not the regulator? I have the custom jumper wires I made with connectors if you want them. It's easy to test the alternator with this method, and eliminates the regulator from the system during the test.

 

I have verified that my stator is 100%. What do I check next?

 

What is resting voltage on the battery, and voltage with bike running around 4kRPM? Should be 12.5~12.8v and 13.5~14.5V running. If not, the regulator is probably bad, unless there's a corroded/burnt connection on the alternator connector near the frame, or the regulator block connector at the reg/rect under the left side seat frame.

 

I need the alternator case as two of the three bolts broke off.

 

Can you get the alternator cover off and extract the broken bolts with what remains? Sounds like there may be enough to grab with a pair of vice grips and work them out.

 

We got the broken bolts out, but it was a tedious job.

 

Brian, my apologies if I'm off track here, but if you are absolutely convinced the charging circuit is just fine (which is great!) have you considered reducing the load on the circuit by using perhaps HID/LED lighting?..thinking mainly of the headlight/tail light. We use HID up front here run directly from the battery, (in NZ, and also have headlamp on by law at all times), far better than Halogen (in my opinion) and far less drain on the charging circuit particularly at lower revs.
Cheers
Peter.

 

I'd be all over that. What's the ‎Ω's on that thing? Maybe a short making it act like a heater. Does it get hot when its on?

 

I'll see of I can pull the block connector on the cooling fan and test resistance. I know it works fine, and cycles on an off in traffic. I checked and the fan blade spins freely.

Well, that's easier said than done. Disconnected battery + and propped up tank. Pulled cooling fan connector and probed. No reading. Made sure key was on. It looks like I need to pull part of the lower left fairing and ground the thermo sensor so I can complete the path and reach the motor to test resistance. Sigh.... I'm going to have to do that when I have more free time this weekend. Anyone tested their fan and have a known resistance value?

 

Update: Turned out my stator cover was bad. Replaced that with a new one and all is good again in the world. It was very frustrating to get solid resistance readings on it (yellow to yellow, all less than 1ohm, black to white 2.8ohms) but the bike would stop charging after 10 min of riding. I tried two regulators and neither fixed the issue. Once I bit the cost of a new alternator cover, it's back to 15V at 5000 RPM, and 12.8v~13V at idle. Ridden 4~5 times now, and each time the bike returns with 12.8v in the battery and no more stalling at long lights with traffic from flat battery.