So was... ya know zippin around the net and came across Pulstar Plugs
and was reasonably convinced with some dyno stuff they ran in some
vid's that seem to suggest they "may" indeed be "extra" beneficial. !

So in trying to see which ones they have that might work in a Hurricane
their Pulstar HE1IT is pretty much a direct replacement for the
NGK DPR7EA-9 ( a hotter plug than our spec' DPR9EA-9) and according to
sparkplugs . com moving from a 9 heat rating to a 7 heat rating in
an NGK equates to 70 - 100 degree difference per numeral ( in other words
2 notches down to a 7 means a 140 - 200 degree increase at the spark
plug tip. Now it's a given that our bikes run rich and a bit dirty at the plug
most times so what ya think about running these hotter plugs
Pulstar HE1IT (DPR7EA-9's) in a Hurricane ?

Anyone have experience messing with SparkPlug heat ranges ??

 

These plugs are quite expensive- over $100 for a set of four. One guy tested these plugs, and his results were very different than the manufacturers claims Pulstar pulse spark plugs review Further, Amazon sells then, and the reviews there were definately mixed-22 of 54 reviews gave the plugs only one out of five stars while 17 gave the plugs five stars. Amazon.com: Pulstar BE-1 Pulse Plug, Pack of 2: Automotive I'd certainly want to see something more definitive, other than the manufacturers claims, before forking out that kind of money for these plugs.

 

yeah seen a place to get 'em for like 60 bucks. Don't mind trying 'em just looking for
implications and issues in relation to running hotter plugs in a Hurricane. Money back
guarantee with them too I believe

the range for a spark plugs optimal operating range is apparently 500-800 degrees
art the tip, in that range they self-clean ......so trying to figure out if going two heat
levels higher will be risky ?

 

If you run ur bike at high speed/wot in hot weather, for any extended period running todays fuels with alcohol , u could have serious problems. The least of which may be short plug life, at worst a burned valve or piston.. Changing 2 heat ranges is a lot and my stock look as if they are almost too hot as is. Just my .02.
The plugs may be great, but would stay with oe heat range. Do these plugs have an "extended tip" ?, if so they will have a wider heat range.

 

Automobile Repair/Spark plugs - Wikibooks, open books for an open world

From the page: With respect to heat range, manufactured racing engines already have most of the selection done. The stock plug is usually within two heat ranges of ideal. The only change that might be needed to use the fine wire version of the same plug (usually 1 or 2 steps hotter). For heavily modified standard engines the choice is less clear. A plug 2 to 3 ranges colder than stock and of the fine wire type would be a good starting point. Complete the ignition timing and fuel system adjustments first and then select the final heat range for the spark plug.
Figure 1 illustrates hot versus cold spark plugs. Spark plugs are capable of running anywhere from cold to hot in a given engine, depending on plug design. Use the hottest plug that won't over heat itself under the worst conditions.
A hot plug does not make an engine run hot, nor a cold plug make an engine run cold. A hot plug merely means that the insulator nose will run hotter and keep itself clean by burning off deposits. Needs clarification, per NGK..... Spark Plug Installation Instructions
A plug which is too cold collects carbon and fuel deposits on its insulator, which leaks energy from the ignition, causing loss of power, if allowed to continue it will foul (not spark at all).
The length of the insulator determines the heat range of a plug. Use the hottest plug that doesn't burn the tip of the center electrode.
If your plug is too cold, you will see deposits on the nose of your plug. Figure 6 illustrates this. If your plug is too hot, the porcelain will be porous looking, almost like sugar. The material which seals the center electrode to the insulator will boil out.
Note: A lower number usually means a colder spark plug but not all the time. Ex: NGK uses high numbers for cold spark plugs as Bosch uses a lower number for colder spark plugs.


I'm dubious that you would see an much improvement over an Iridium plug. Then again I am a cheap bastard. I'm running the $5.50 Iridium plugs from Walmart.

 

Sprock- Two numbers hotter may be a little much but only if you are tuned lean or work it hard for an extended time. Your best value is to go with a platnum or iridium fine wire plug if you are inclined to try an upgrade. Bike ignition systems are relatively weak and need some help. Making the most out of the stock coils spark means getting the energy to the tip of the plug with minimum loss and then giving it a clean and sharp point to jump off. These type offer the best value. If it's too good to be true...Gimmicks.

 

Have the DPR9EIX-9's in 'em already Jim, and they are super and like Fat Man I got 'em in the mid $5 range too , just thinking of trying these more out of curiosity and to see if they do indeed give a little extra ooompphhh !

 

I've built and owned a few high powered turbo charged cars... though 'high power' becomes a relative term after owning it; more is never enough.
Here is my opinion on plugs... I'm no expert, but I know a thing or two, so do what you like with it

I learned that there is only one advantage to buyers regarding iridium plugs (or whatever plug advertised as as using exotic non-copper), wich is; they last longer, keeping up performance when copper plugs need replacing; so they'll last a few k miles longer before the need for changing, wich is great with all the 'longlife' fluids and filters (since people don't have time to have their vehicles serviced anymore).

Drawbacks are that you pay 3 or 4 times as much per plug for about twice the life span, and you can't adjust the gap between the electrodes (as you can with coppers).
And you want as big a gap as possible (before it 'blown out' somewhat like a candle) to get the most efficient burn, wich requires fine tuning, but you're just stuck with whatever gap the manufacturer provides.

Also, imo, stick with NGK plugs.
I never had or seen one fail within twice the normal life expectancy (or within the reasonable expectancy in 200hp/l engines).
I did see Bosch and Denso plugs fail multiple times though, usually the electrode breaking off causing immediate total destruction to valves and seats, chambers, pistons, rods and bearings.

 

Running hotter plugs can and probably will cause detonation and a holed piston. The rule of thumb is run the coldest plug that doesn't foul. I assume you are of the opinion a hotter plug will in some way provide increased performance un true.

 

Sprock. I think the benefits would be bugger all in the real word. If you were trying to shave off 100ths of a second from your lap times, then the extra $ might be worth while. I'm still using the same NGK plugs that I've had in for bulk km. My bike runs great and goes really fast...or would if was silly enough to open the throttle WIDE!!...and often