I'd take em out man and check each air needle for 1st spring then 2nd washer then 3rd o-ring in that order on each needle, oring being the last item at the tip of the needle.

Typically the easiest way to get the washer and oring out is gently with a coarse
decking or drywall screw watch for bent washers from over tightening !
This spreads the oring and lets air past messing things up

exactly 2 1/2 turns out man. 360, 360 then 180

 

Thanks Sprock! I will do so and report afterwards! Thanks

 

I still don't know what the clutch has to do with idle unless the clutch switch is shorting out reducing voltage to the coils.

 

TimBucTwo,
me neither. I'm perplexed by this issue. I see no connection with one to the other. My only theory is this and all of you experts PLEASE comment on this. My theory is that when i pressed the clutch to switch gears then it disengage the gears and the air going through the carbs (air pilot or what not) is too much that it does not let the piston (diaphragm to close or come back down). Again this is my first time working on bikes nor i have a mechanical background on carbs or bikes so i could be dead wrong on this.

In light of my last comment, i have no idea whether there is a connection between the clutch switch and the coils. I do remember once my brother dropping my bike and bending the clutch level. I just replaced it and never checked if anything inside bended as well. Perhaps i tighten the clutch too much and there is no play room so it does not disengage all the way.

So far the consensus i gather is either the carbs are out of whack or the clutch switch. How can i test the clutch switch?

 

Hi again all,
Took the day to work on my bike. I took carbs out. Remove all pilots and air screw and jets. Even one screw that has a filter in it. I assume is to prevent anything to the bowl from the fuel lines. I have them in carb cleaner right now. I even submerge the entire carb bank in carb cleaner. First time doing that. I made sure to remove all rubber pieces out.

Silly question here, how do you dispose this carb cleaner? Just bring it to your local auto part store?

Since I have the fairings out I may bleed the breaks and or the clutch. I think that's old fluid in there as the precious owner never did anything of that.

 

Silly question here, how do you dispose this carb cleaner?

Fire starter - all you need is a match

 

Carbs are cleaned. I should had submerged them in carb cleaner the first time around. I bench tested them for leaks and left gas in them overnight and no leaks. I also made sure the butterfly close and open at the same ratio. Diaphragm piston slide up and down smoothly, not too fast not too slow. I made sure I tighten the top cover enough for there not to be an air leak too.

I will put the carbs in the bike later today and test ride.

Any one used a mighty vac to do a clutch or break bleed?

 

Good one Sprock!! I will use it next time I have a BBQ to light up a charcoal! ROFL

 

Adds an extra special layer of crispy taste to it

The air needles - not leaking past their o-rings right ?
another way is light silicone sealer on the air needle threads
to be sure to be sure or simple bead outside each one

 

Put carbs back on today. I started the bike, right on with full choke. After a few sec RPM increased which is normal. It didn't increase like crazy as it used to do before. I'm able to take choke off once warmed and bike idle around 1300RPM. I've read that normal should be around 1200RPM so I'll bring the idle **** down a bit.

I took it for a 3-4 min ride and everything seem normal. I didn't notice RPM increasing when pressing the clutch but in some situations it stay steady so if RPM was in 3K then it will stay there. I didn't feel the engine being forced as it used to.

I don't think that was a great test ride but I will try to ride it a bit more to make sure it is fixed.

I remember the issue was when the engine was hot past mid point and I didn't get there during my test ride.

Sprock I will try to put some silicone around the cap as I already got the carbs in the bike. I bought the set of orings you suggested, can I used any of those as long as they fit? I didn't replaced them I'm still using stock orings as I didn't know whether there was a difference. In the set I have there isn't anything close to the stock oring. It's either less thicker or more thicker oring. I don't use any of them. I remember a pic of the oring you have and I asked why the oring in your bike was thicker and you said bc you bought a different set than original.

All this week is going to rain, we are even in flood alert. This rain needs to stop so I can ride. I never rode in the rain and I don't plan to either. I deem it too dangerous!