Madhattr,
I totally understand. I thought of that too. I'm pricing tools to be around $100 including tax. If a shop can do this for something around that price then i'll prefer them do it.

Now, the question is... could my issue be fixed by just adjusting the air pilot or is something else? Even after my local shop gave me the bike back after sync carb it did this so i'm not quite confident in them any more; unless, part of sync does not include idle adjustment. I'll be looking for another shops now. Perhaps the shop can test drive it and find it's something else...

I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks!

 

There is a clutch switch that works in conjunction with the neutral switch. There may be a problem with one or both switch wrings.

 

Many bikes have a cable operated clutch. These bikes however have a hydraulic clutch, which operates the same way the brakes do, hence the master cylinder on both handlebars. what you thought is a cable, is actually the hydraulic pipe that runs down to the clutch slave cylinder.

Also I'm not sure you're used to a manual choke? Most vehicles are fuel injected or have an automatic choke these days and many people may never have come across a manual choke before.

It is perfectly normal for the RPM to rise as the engine warms up, making it necessary to adjust the amount of choke gradually untill the engine reaches a temperature it can operate without an enriched mixture. Don't stress too much about that, it's just one of the idiosyncrasies of older bikes

 

Thanks TimBucTwo! I'll check the clutch switch!!

 

Thanks for the explanation hawkwind! I'm new at working in my bike. I honestly just learning about it. The way i see it is that if i work on it then i learn and i can save some money on easy tasks whereas if i see is out of my reach then i bring it to a shop.

I understand is normal that the RPM goes up as it warms up, but my bike's RPM goes up in matters of 15-20 secs of starting it cold to 3K or 4K and i don't think that's normal. This just started to happen after i got the bike's carb sync from one of the local shop.

I got a feeling that they increase the air intake by opening more the air pilot screws and increasing the idle **** so they can take the choke completely off. The original issue was that my bike would only run with choke half way on so i have the local shop sync the carbs but even when they gave it back to me they told me you will notice that sometimes the RPM will hang up but that's OK, which i don't think so. But the weird thing is that right now when the bike is warm it idles at 800RPM it feels as it's almost shutting off.

 

Madhattr,
Would this also work for measuring the RPM?
LCD Automotive Multimeter with Tachometer Kit

 

Normal idle should be set at 1,200 rpm. If set to low you would have some fluctuations. Mine would die or almost die and then pick up if set at 800.

Anything below 1,000 is to low.

 

TimBucTwo,

I will try to sync it myself. I'm thinking on taking the carbs out and make sure the air pilot screw are 2 1/2 turns out. It seems as they may had been moved by the mechanic shop when they were syncing. Also as Madhattr suggested to adjust the idle ****. I just need to find time available.

 

If the shop sync'ed them I would not mess with them. You will never get them close without a sync tool. Try to turn the idle up to 1,200 first.

 

TimBucTwo,
I have a motion pro carb sync tool. I need to get a hold of a air pilot screwdriver so i can reach there otherwise i need to take the carbs out and make sure the air pilot are set at 2 1/2 turns out or even try 2 1/4 out.

I tried increasing the idle up and it was the same the RPM would stay up when pressing the clutch.