Headlight switch (always on) and a question about charging.
#1
Headlight switch (always on) and a question about charging.
My headlights turn on when I turn on the ignition. I can't find a switch to turn them off. There is only Hi-Lo switch. It is a 1990 US model (according to vin). They turn of for the time that the starter button is pushed and come back on when it is released so it doesn't cause any starting problems (there is enough juice for the starter) but charging at idle is a bit issue. I have not measured the current with ignition on and engine off as I assume it is more than 10A and I don't have appropriate equipment (rear light+front lights+other consumers that turn on with ignition like dash lights and ignition makes a lot of watts). With ignition off I got 12,8V on the battery about 10minutes after riding. With ignition on and engine off it showed 11.96V At idle (1000 +/-100) it is about 12V so it is draining the battery not charging, at around 1600-2000rpm 13,5V and at 4000rpm it was 14.7 and stayed there regardless of increasing rpm so rectifier should be OK. The lights are also a bit dim when idling (low volts) and get brighter when I give it about 500-1000rpm. The battery is new Varta 14Ah (chose it according to manual) lead-acid 12V. It seems that I can't do anything about the charging but if I could turn the lights off while warming the engine (usually 1-2min) it could save some battery juice on short trips.
So the question is. Where should the headlight On-Off switch be?
So the question is. Where should the headlight On-Off switch be?
#2
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#4
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Some states in the US require DRL's & since 1979 most manufacturers selling Bikes
in the US have included them automatically.
Ref:
Here in Maine you won't pass inspection without it.
Easiest way to interfere with DRLS would be a simple interrupt switch on the low
beams wiring
To be honest I run my hi beams a lot as I like to make sure I'm seen, out on the
highway behind traffic - I run the lows
in the US have included them automatically.
Ref:
Here in Maine you won't pass inspection without it.
Easiest way to interfere with DRLS would be a simple interrupt switch on the low
beams wiring
To be honest I run my hi beams a lot as I like to make sure I'm seen, out on the
highway behind traffic - I run the lows
#5
My US model doesn't have a switch for the lights - and my front indicators stay on all the time.................
The standard Regulator doesn't charge much under 3000 revs so if you leave it idling long enough, it'll eventually stall.
Many of us fit replacement reg/recs from Electrex
Charge from 1400 revs and give you more usable current.
The standard stator puts out 30 A which is plenty for normal use - but if you wear electric jackets etc etc you may wish to improve the charging especially in heavy traffic on cold days.
The standard Regulator doesn't charge much under 3000 revs so if you leave it idling long enough, it'll eventually stall.
Many of us fit replacement reg/recs from Electrex
Charge from 1400 revs and give you more usable current.
The standard stator puts out 30 A which is plenty for normal use - but if you wear electric jackets etc etc you may wish to improve the charging especially in heavy traffic on cold days.
#6
One other thing about the DRL, the head lamp should go out when cranking to divert all power to the starter motor, then direct power back to the lamp.
Last edited by TimBucTwo; 05-15-2013 at 10:47 AM. Reason: added download info
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